Wheel and Tire Fitment Picture Thread (sticky?)

[Lord Vader]

The OEM Wheels and OEM 285/70R17 BFGs ended up going on one of company Rangers.
‘This Lariat is 100% stock . No lift , no spacers, crash bars still in place.
‘Very very minor rub at full lock in reverse only.
‘Control arm clearance is crazy tight, so tight that you can’t run rim mounted balance weights.
‘But they did fit and have been on the truck a couple weeks now, still doing just fine.

Very tight fit. Lol

Did have to pull the rim mounted wheel weights to get the needed clearance.

Is this truck a 2.3 or 2.7? Mine is a 2.7 and it probably sits a little lower than a 2.3. I really want 285's but I don't want to touch the suspension if I can avoid it. I tow heavy sometimes. I might go with a 1" spacer or a 30 offset wheel so I'll have a little breathing room by the UCA. Still no issues?

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[cc1999]

Is this truck a 2.3 or 2.7? Mine is a 2.7 and it probably sits a little lower than a 2.3. I really want 285's but I don't want to touch the suspension if I can avoid it. I tow heavy sometimes. I might go with a 1" spacer or a 30 offset wheel so I'll have a little breathing room by the UCA. Still no issues?

2.7L
Still no issues. I was in that truck today.
The ride is bit stiff compared to the stock 255 tires.
Overall drives fine.

 

[Lord Vader]

2.7L
Still no issues. I was in that truck today.
The ride is bit stiff compared to the stock 255 tires.
Overall drives fine.

That's great! Those are probably LT tires you're running so that's why it's stiffer. I'm going to look for P tires since I don't really go off road. I put on the Husky fender flares so I'm just looking to fill out the wheel well.

 

[cc1999]

Stealth black PPF wrapped RR
‘Running Falken Wildpeak AT4W P285/70R17 33s on Bronco SAS OEM simulated bead-lock rims
17x8.5 +30 offset wheel spec.

 

[el_sabio]

Stealth black PPF wrapped RR
‘Running Falken Wildpeak AT4W P285/70R17 33s on Bronco SAS OEM simulated bead-lock rims
17x8.5 +30 offset wheel spec.

those are actually true bead lock wheels. Remove the trim ring and there are 20 thread points and you can order the bead lock rings from Ford. That said, they're over $200 EACH!! for a ring and hardware. Sheesh.

I got the same wheels on my XLT and wan to get 33's on after I settle on which aftermarket coil overs to get.

 

[cc1999]

those are actually true bead lock wheels. Remove the trim ring and there are 20 thread points and you can order the bead lock rings from Ford. That said, they're over $200 EACH!! for a ring and hardware. Sheesh.

I got the same wheels on my XLT and wan to get 33's on after I settle on which aftermarket coil overs to get.

Yep, Exactly!
However, as they are as seen here, they are only a simulated bead-lock rim, only when you buy the real bead-lock rings can they be made into true bead-lock rims.

Ford also sells simulated rings that hit all the holes making it look even more like a true bead-lock, yet still not a true bead-lock.

Which I did buy a set of those grey rings. I have not yet decided if I want to run them on this truck or maybe one of my White RRs.

One of my White RRs has the stock rings from the Bronco on it.

The other one I have the stock rings powder coated grey.

 

[Bluestra1n]

Ive spent way too much time debating what to do between 285/70/17s that need +2k in wheels in tires and then another 400 in flares and a 2.5" level that gets rid of the rake or just get 265/70/17s on stock wheels and a 1-1.5" level, but then i only get a .5" diameter increase. I dont think 275's will work for me cuz i only have a .5" clearance between the stock 255's and my knuckle, which would leave me with 2 mm clearance (yikes) on 275s.

All this to say, did you go with the 255/75/r17s? im curious how they look and i dont see many other people going with that size.

Another look at the control arm clearance. Unscientific approach, but nevertheless the measurement is accurate.
2025 (built 08/2025) XLT FX4, OEM wheels, 255/70-17
I guess I’m just too conservative, so I’m going with the Nokian Outpost nAT 255/75-17.
Different tire makes/models certainly have different dimensions but with a baseline of LESS THAN 1/2” clearance?! How does that accommodate any sidewall bulge? What about running lower tire pressure off-road?
The 255/75-17s will give me about 1” more diameter, so hoping that puts minimal stress on the transmission (and only 2 mph difference on the speedo/odo).
Eibach Stage 2 kit on order, so I’ll post picts after install with the tires.

 

[Lion77]

17x8.5 ET+35 Method 705's on stock KO3's:

25.2lbs per wheel (as per Method, my scale is a bit off) + they are bead grip, so about 95% of what a true bead lock will do, but no fuss with rings etc. WAAAYY lighter than OEM bead locks and a couple pounds lighter than OEM alloys.

I think right now I'm the only one with a RR and 705's, lots have the 703's which is similar, but a bit heavier.

With stock tires, the sidewalls are about flush with the fender flares, tread is tucked in just a bit. Good clearance for turning up front with ET35 on stock tires. I'd estimate about a full inch between tire and crash bars at full lock.

As others have found out, about +30 to +35 is about as wide as you can go without rubbing / trimming at full articulation on stock tires. Any more offset, especially when paired with bigger tires, or if you flex it out, jump it etc., you'll need trim, remove the crash bards and lift.

I wanted full clearance for jumping / articulation on stock tires without suspension mods, so I went ET35.

 

[Oldbarn70]

Toyo Open Country AT3 285/70R17
Bronco 17" take-offs +55 offset
Truxxx 1.5" level
No trimming required. About 1/2" space between tire and upper control arm

After looking at a bunch of Rangers here with either the 2.5” or 1.5” level, there appears to be no difference, in fact, some of the 1.5” levels appear to be higher in the front than the 2.5” ones. I may end up doing the safe 1” level because of the chance the truck looks “up” in the front even the slightest bit. Maybe it’s the picture, but this 1.5” levels appear looks high in the front.

Do you have any other pictures that give it a better view of looking better? Thanks

 

[Oldbarn70]

• 2024 XLT Sport 4×4
• Tires: 275/70/R17 Falken Wildpeak A/T4W
• Wheels: RockTrix RT114 17×8.5, +25 offset
• 1.5 inch Truxxx leveling kit
• No mods, cutting, or trimming. The only rub I get is in reverse and full lock but it's very minimal.

Has more poke than I expected, but not in a bad way. Everything looks even better than I anticipated. Just having some balancing issues with the tires but I'm hoping to get that dialed in tomorrow. And the 1.5 inch level leaves just enough rake to be able to load the bed with at least a few hundred pounds and not be nose-up. Very happy with the overall look.

Another truck where it looks like the 1.5” levels appear makes the truck look too high in the front compared to a 2.5” level. Maybe it’s just the pics but I see 2.5 ones that look like they aren’t up so much. Weird.

 

[XORegonian]

After looking at a bunch of Rangers here with either the 2.5” or 1.5” level, there appears to be no difference, in fact, some of the 1.5” levels appear to be higher in the front than the 2.5” ones. I may end up doing the safe 1” level because of the chance the truck looks “up” in the front even the slightest bit. Maybe it’s the picture, but this 1.5” levels appear looks high in the front.

Do you have any other pictures that give it a better view of looking better? Thanks

I would have agreed with you when I took that initial picture. It was almost perfectly level. It has since settled a bit and the front is about 3/4" lower than the back.

 

[NightmareFX4]

My 2025 Ranger XL Stock Height & Rims with 255/75 R17 KO3's Installed, No Rub at all.

 

[NevadaBob]

1.5" level, Method 703s with +35 offset, Toyo Open Country AT3 tires. No rubbing.

 

[Adamc55]

1.5" level, Method 703s with +35 offset, Toyo Open Country AT3 tires. No rubbing.

What size tires?

 

[NevadaBob]

What size tires?

Whoops, thought I had that in there. 285/70-17

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