The ULTIMATE guide to lifting your Ranger Raptor

[YukonRanger]

Ned/ GOAT Off Road is the real deal. I checked out all of the many available lift options and I am so happy I went with his spacers.

He even makes reprogramming the Fox Live Valve easy
https://goatoffroad.com.au/blogs/tech-talk/next-gen-ranger-raptor-ride-height-calibration

I am sooo stoked on how the truck rides! Thanks again Ned!

@markferry that looks like a nice balanced setup

Is that the GOAT 2"/1" kit?

What rims\Offset?

She's a beauty

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[markferry]

More pics

 

[nedmo]

@nedmo If you wanted to go up to a 3" Lift is there anything that can be done to mitigate damage to tierods\CV\Ball joints?

My new raptor is arriving soon and I'd like to start preordering parts

If 2" is the safest so be it, I'll work within that limit for now and wait and see what aftermarket delivers in the future. Portals seem awesome but the price is steep and I'm worried about investing in them up here in the Yukon because we salt our roads....scared they will corrode over time.

Seems like the FOX live valve is both a blessing and a curse on these trucks. You are either stuck forking over 20K for portals or somewhat compromising the design for just a tiny bit more clearance. The stock sidestep rails are somewhat self defeating too, silly design. Sure woulda been nice had ford made the truck with 35's standard and wheel wells that would fit 37-40.

2in spacer is the limit for safe CV angles. You can do more lift by combining a spacer and springs. But you need to factor in your tyre size. If going 34" you can do a 1in spacer and 2in spring lift, but it is compromising the internal bypass system with the spring lift.

Honestly, we have found no practical benefits to more than a 2in spacer lift.

 

[YukonRanger]

2in spacer is the limit for safe CV angles. You can do more lift by combining a spacer and springs. But you need to factor in your tyre size. If going 34" you can do a 1in spacer and 2in spring lift, but it is compromising the internal bypass system with the spring lift.

Honestly, we have found no practical benefits to more than a 2in spacer lift.

Thanks @nedmo

when you say no practical benefit, do you mean you still can't squeeze larger tires under?

what about adding wider fender flares would that help?

sorry about the questions, I dont have the truck yet so im trying to figure it out blind

 

[nedmo]

Thanks @nedmo

when you say no practical benefit, do you mean you still can't squeeze larger tires under?

what about adding wider fender flares would that help?

sorry about the questions, I dont have the truck yet so im trying to figure it out blind

Lift has no relationship to fitting big tyres. Sure, you may have clearance at ride height, but your suspension still compresses, moving the tyre up into the wheel arch which gets smaller and smaller.

Anything bigger than a 35 does not fit the Ranger Raptor. When I say "fit" i mean proper fit, not instagram fit ???

The wheel arch diameter is barely big enough for a true 35x12.5R17 at full lock. Wider flares don't solve this, and depending on the style, actually makes it worse, as they add material to the wheel well, making the diameter smaller.

 

[West27]

I bought some 1 inch lift for the front to just level it out. Did not installed them yet,, they look fragile and im scared cos i do high speed offroad... any1 had issues with them ?

 

[CrustyNoodle]

If you got them from G.O.A.T Offroad in Australia then I doubt you will have any issue. I believe they are pretty thorough with their stuff....

If you didn't then it's anybody's guess.

 

[nedmo]

I bought some 1 inch lift for the front to just level it out. Did not installed them yet,, they look fragile and im scared cos i do high speed offroad... any1 had issues with them ?

16mm of 6061 aluminum is fragile?

These spacers have literally been tested on the proving grounds that Ford tested the ranger raptor on

But best not use the Fox shocks then, being that the body is only 3mm aluminum bodies.

 

[nedmo]

Bump

 

[Lion77]

In order to run a 315/70R17 K02 (the FP spec tire used on their Baja truck), do you have to lift 2" to get the proper clearance inside the wheel well?

It is my understanding that the race team ran stock ride heigh and only adjusted their perch collars to compensate for the added weight of the safety gear (full cage, parts, nav etc.).

We know what tire size they ran and it was the FP spec K02 used on the F-150 Raptors. I'm kinda looking to copy that setup as much as possible as I think it offers a good balance between clearance for rough terrain without ruining the high-speed handling.

I also found out from Method that they ran the MR207 forged wheels in +25mm off set, so I would run either a +35mm or +25mm wheel to ensure tire to strut clearance, but we know at full lock that pushes the tire forward or backward more (depending on which way its turned) as it's more outboard from the hub.

I'm willing to use strut spacers if needed, but I'm curious how the FP team got the 35's to fit without them unless they just did a lot of trimming. I realize a race spec truck is not a production truck, but they used production chassis and powertrain, so the hubs, arms (upper and low) and shocks were all factory.

 

[nedmo]

In order to run a 315/70R17 K02 (the FP spec tire used on their Baja truck), do you have to lift 2" to get the proper clearance inside the wheel well?

It is my understanding that the race team ran stock ride heigh and only adjusted their perch collars to compensate for the added weight of the safety gear (full cage, parts, nav etc.).

We know what tire size they ran and it was the FP spec K02 used on the F-150 Raptors. I'm kinda looking to copy that setup as much as possible as I think it offers a good balance between clearance for rough terrain without ruining the high-speed handling.

I also found out from Method that they ran the MR207 forged wheels in +25mm off set, so I would run either a +35mm or +25mm wheel to ensure tire to strut clearance, but we know at full lock that pushes the tire forward or backward more (depending on which way its turned) as it's more outboard from the hub.

I'm willing to use strut spacers if needed, but I'm curious how the FP team got the 35's to fit without them unless they just did a lot of trimming. I realize a race spec truck is not a production truck, but they used production chassis and powertrain, so the hubs, arms (upper and low) and shocks were all factory.

So no one knows exactly what shocks they were running, but we know they definitely werent factory. This is proven by the threaded bodies. That class has no restrictions on shocks, as long they can be bolted in with out modifying the chassis.
All they would have need to be is 1-2in longer in overall length to move the stroke range enough to give proper clearance at full compression for 35s. Same concept as fitting strut spacers.

The fact is though, 315/70r17 rub on the uca and the chassis in the rear on factory p55 offset wheels. So you need to have at least a p40 offset for the wider width (i did a whole thread about this.

As you said, trying to emulate a factory race truck is never going to translate, as true specs are hidden.

what we have found on production vehicles that to safely fit 35s , you need a 2” front and 1” rear strut spacer.

 

[embedded rock]

Anyone have pics with 2in (32mm) spacers front and rear with 35in tire mounted?

 

[CrustyNoodle]

In order to run a 315/70R17 K02 (the FP spec tire used on their Baja truck), do you have to lift 2" to get the proper clearance inside the wheel well?

It is my understanding that the race team ran stock ride heigh and only adjusted their perch collars to compensate for the added weight of the safety gear (full cage, parts, nav etc.).

We know what tire size they ran and it was the FP spec K02 used on the F-150 Raptors. I'm kinda looking to copy that setup as much as possible as I think it offers a good balance between clearance for rough terrain without ruining the high-speed handling.

I also found out from Method that they ran the MR207 forged wheels in +25mm off set, so I would run either a +35mm or +25mm wheel to ensure tire to strut clearance, but we know at full lock that pushes the tire forward or backward more (depending on which way its turned) as it's more outboard from the hub.

I'm willing to use strut spacers if needed, but I'm curious how the FP team got the 35's to fit without them unless they just did a lot of trimming. I realize a race spec truck is not a production truck, but they used production chassis and powertrain, so the hubs, arms (upper and low) and shocks were all factory.

Hmmm...

I was under the impression they ran 295/70R17 tyres and only had minimal offset (like +35 down from +55 for the stock wheels). Also, I thought (on the initial Baja anyhow) they ran standard suspension.

My impression came from something Justin Capicchiano posted on a Face Book group quite a while ago.

 

[RangerGrif43]

So no one knows exactly what shocks they were running, but we know they definitely werent factory. This is proven by the threaded bodies. That class has no restrictions on shocks, as long they can be bolted in with out modifying the chassis.
All they would have need to be is 1-2in longer in overall length to move the stroke range enough to give proper clearance at full compression for 35s. Same concept as fitting strut spacers.

The fact is though, 315/70r17 rub on the uca and the chassis in the rear on factory p55 offset wheels. So you need to have at least a p40 offset for the wider width (i did a whole thread about this.

As you said, trying to emulate a factory race truck is never going to translate, as true specs are hidden.

what we have found on production vehicles that to safely fit 35s , you need a 2” front and 1” rear strut spacer.

I had one question and you answered it. Thank you. Got my RR on Thursday, and wanted to know what I need to do to put on 35's.

 

[jrlrule]

Would a 1.5/1" lift be good enough to fit a 255/85r17 skinny "35s"

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