The ULTIMATE guide to lifting your Ranger Raptor

[scuba mike]

Truck looks great.. so just to verify only installed 1.5 in the front ?

Sure! Pic is a little cramped but more flat. Again I wanted to leave a little rake (dont like nose-up, will be adding MOLLE panels, stability, etc.). Happy with it! Rock Krawler kit is perch collar style like GOAT.

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[mooner3]

Truck looks great.. so just to verify only installed 1.5 in the front ?

Thanks man! Yes 1.5" only in front, but I just noticed I totally typoed my post before, Rock Krawler are strut spacers like the GOATs, I think I wasn't paying attention when I wrote that.

 

[scuba mike]

Ok thanks.. again love the look of your truck.. time to do mine.


QUOTE="mooner3, post: 421027, member: 13542"]
Thanks man! Yes 1.5" only in front, but I just noticed I totally typoed my post before, Rock Krawler are strut spacers like the GOATs, I think I wasn't paying attention when I wrote that.
[/QUOTE]

 

[sikedsyko]

Do the ride height sensors need to be calibrated if you replace the entire sensor? My front right is broken at the arm on the sensor itself, not the linkage. Debating how much hassle the warranty would give, the truck is stock and has seem relatively minor offroad use. Sensor itself should be easy enough to replace. If its just a part swap I'll just DIY, but if it needs some calibration I'll probably just let the dealer handle it.

 

[nedmo]

Do the ride height sensors need to be calibrated if you replace the entire sensor? My front right is broken at the arm on the sensor itself, not the linkage. Debating how much hassle the warranty would give, the truck is stock and has seem relatively minor offroad use. Sensor itself should be easy enough to replace. If its just a part swap I'll just DIY, but if it needs some calibration I'll probably just let the dealer handle it.

Which part broke?

 

[sikedsyko]

Which part broke?

Mine is broken at the arm that rotates on the sensor. Here:

 

[nedmo]

Ahh ok. Yes, it would be best practice to recalibrate after replacement

 

[Lion77]

If going with 285/75R17's (33.8" or +1" diam increase over stock KO3's), do you need a rear lift or is there enough clearance in the rear to just do a 1" front and 0" rear on 34's?

I know the rear has some extra wheel well clearance over the front since the live rear axle doesn't steer like the fronts.

 

[nedmo]

If going with 285/75R17's (33.8" or +1" diam increase over stock KO3's), do you need a rear lift or is there enough clearance in the rear to just do a 1" front and 0" rear on 34's?

I know the rear has some extra wheel well clearance over the front since the live rear axle doesn't steer like the fronts.

Bang on. The rear does have more clearance at full comp so a 1" front spacer lift is all that is required for that tyre size.

 

[Lion77]

OK now im really tempted once the stock KO3s wear out!

1. Not paying for extra set of tires since replqcment would be necessary anway at that point. Already have to pay for mount and balance too so no extra cost there either.

2. 1" spacers in front only are $205 + cost of alignment if I do install myself (not my first rodeo as they say).

3. Gains a couple of degrees in approach, and breakover. Guessing the departure would be a wash as the slight gain in height would most likely be offset by loss in rake angle yielding a net zero on departure.

4. Maintains functional rake, should still allow for a reasonable payload but im sure youll induce a reverse rake sooner than you would with stock rake since you have less rear squat margin.

[((10.7" + 0.8") / 10.7") - 1] × 100 = + 7.5% increase in min clearance

[((10.7" + 0.5") / 10.7") - 1] × 100 = + 4.7% increase in min clearance

Pretty close in overall function, but FAR fewer drivability tradeoffs compared to 315/70s.

 

[donkey]

OK now im really tempted once the stock KO3s wear out!

1. Not paying for extra set of tires since replqcment would be necessary anway at that point. Already have to pay for mount and balance too so no extra cost there either.

2. 1" spacers in front only are $205 + cost of alignment if I do install myself (not my first rodeo as they say).

3. Gains a couple of degrees in approach, and breakover. Guessing the departure would be a wash as the slight gain in height would most likely be offset by loss in rake angle yielding a net zero on departure.

4. Maintains functional rake, should still allow for a reasonable payload but im sure youll induce a reverse rake sooner than you would with stock rake since you have less rear squat margin.

[((10.7" + 0.8") / 10.7") - 1] × 100 = + 7.5% increase in min clearance

[((10.7" + 0.5") / 10.7") - 1] × 100 = + 4.7% increase in min clearance

Pretty close in overall function, but FAR fewer drivability tradeoffs compared to 315/70s.

Just do 35x11.50r17 and go full send

 

[aft86]

Has anyone had problems with over extension of the brake lines, breather hoses, and bump stops when doing a lift?

 

[nedmo]

Has anyone had problems with over extension of the brake lines, breather hoses, and bump stops when doing a lift?

Brake lines - No
No breathers on the Raptor suspension
Bump stops are on the shock shaft. So strut spacers have no effect on bump stop engaging at the same point. We detail this extensively in the post

 

[dpAtlanta]

Original info on page 1.... great stuff.
Thank You for the well delivered information!

 

[Lion77]

GOAT spacers are the way to go for lifts. Honestly, I'm not seeing any point in Fox's new shocks for the RR. The RR Race truck never had over heating issues with their factory 2.5 shocks, they only used perch collars to adjust ride height to compensate for the weight, clear the 35x12.5 BFG race tires and "lift the nose" a bit for more clearance in Baja. They added limit straps to stop the harsh top-out with the additional pre-load, other than adjustable perch collars and limit straps, the stock 2.5's have run Baja and Finke 3x now without any heat issues.

Fox's aftermarket shocks for the RR are a bit larger with front Reservoirs and adjustable height and I'm guessing pre-load, so they do offer that for those really wanting to test and tune, but for 99% of those wanting a lift and bigger tires, then strut spacers + ride height cal + tie rods is all you need! That or mod your fenders up front which is what the RR Race truck did.

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