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superj

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man, it makes me really nervous thinking of pulling everything to do this stuff. i know its not hard but man, does it make me nervous.

i had to do some repairs on one of my son's friend's police interceptor explorer this weekend. we had to pull the rear 1/4 of the headliner and all the trim on the rear hatch. it wasn't hard or anything but it was a 2017 ex-cop car so its not perfect. that makes it alot easier to yank trim and headliners, ha ha ha
 
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noswttea4u

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man, it makes me really nervous thinking of pulling everything to do this stuff. i know its not hard but man, does it make me nervous.

i had to do some repairs on one of my son's friend's police interceptor explorers this weekend. we had to pull the rear 1/4 of the headliner and all the trim on the rear hatch. it wasn't hard or anything but it was a 2017 ex-cop car so its not perfect. that makes it alot easier to yank trim and headliners, ha ha ha
Same. I really want to do it, but I also lack patience so I feel like I might break some things and then I'm SOL whereas if a shop breaks it, they'll fix it.
 

Watchdog62

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Ordered the Focals 690 front speaker/tweeter. Also Kicker KSC535 from Crutchfield last night. Can someone confirm for the 2025 RR the front door speakers are 6x9s? According to Crutchfield they are.Now shopping for sound deadening.

Thank you all on this thread for the excellent information and hopefully giving me the Courage to tackle this install!
 

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NJ Braptor

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Ordered the Focals 690 front speaker/tweeter. Also Kicker KSC535 from Crutchfield last night. Can someone confirm for the 2025 RR the front door speakers are 6x9s? According to Crutchfield they are.Now shopping for sound deadening.

Thank you all on this thread for the excellent information and hopefully giving me the Courage to tackle this install!
Yup. 6x9 fronts
 

Border411

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Great read ! Subscribed to follow your next steps.

Can't wait to install deadening mats and get going on my audio upgrade project.

I had a Audison Forza M5.11 bit (DSP 5.1 amp) laying around. Going bonkers with replacing all speakers with Hertz Mille Pro, dual amplifiers, all active. I'll use the PAC AmpPRO AP4-FD32 to get clean optical signal.


Can i suggest another route for your solution ?

Instead of going with a powered sub, at a way better price than JL stealthbox, I think you could look at another option.

We are a couple of owners that are going the Stealthtech Ford Ranger sub box from Austrlia. You can fit a 10" sub in there. I'm going with a shallow Hertz MPS 250 S2 which is a pretty good value (you can go even cheaper) for the volume available. It will sound way better than a powered box behind the seat.

Hideaway 10 + KEYLOC/harness is about 700$ ?

Stealthtech box is about 150$, plus a Kicker 47KEY500.1 (500w rms at 1 ohm DSP AMP that combines the smart KEYLOC and a 500w amp) about 240$, plus a 175$ 10" 48CWRT102 (400w rms dual 2ohms version, so 1 ohm, would fit better with the DSP Amp that is stable at 1ohms). Total 565$, cheaper and it will sound wayyyyyy better! You still need that harness though (without the KEYLOC) so might be a wash.

Just put some butyl around that box and some polyfil in it.

Here's my box ready to go, waiting for parts to get in.

sub box.webp
sub box2.webp
I did the exact same box and speaker! 😂. I actually had to turn down my amp as it was actually too much to handle on my truck! I used a heat gun to help mold the box a little more as I notified the speaker bracing was pushing up on the speaker itself too much. E Z P Z.
 
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NJ Braptor

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how much does it reduce wind noise at highway speed? People say they can hear wind noise or road hum or something when I'm doing CarPlay phone calls on the highway 75mph. The phone sounds good during stop and go and is pretty clear. But on the freeway they can hear the underlying background noise. I don't notice it much as a driver and in the cab, but phone picking it up.
I think the roof sound deadening would help this A TON. It's just a big job from what I've seen. I wish I would have asked the dealership to do it while they did the recall on the airbags. Thats the move. Bring the material, pay the labor / buy them lunch. So mad I didnt think to do that earlier.
 

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For the stereo guys: there are several 6x9/tweeter component options for this truck. Some/most come with a crossover. I'm guessing they'd work fine without their crossover as the system is already limiting the frequencies the various locations will see?

And if anybody has any experience with these, I'm looking at the Infinity Reference 697CS or the Kicker KSS690. These are both under $250 and the Focals seem to have mixed reviews given the price. I don't have great hearing and the stock system doesn't sound bad to me, but I'm going to do sound deadening and I hate to do that and not swap out the cheap stock stuff.
 

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For the stereo guys: there are several 6x9/tweeter component options for this truck. Some/most come with a crossover. I'm guessing they'd work fine without their crossover as the system is already limiting the frequencies the various locations will see?

And if anybody has any experience with these, I'm looking at the Infinity Reference 697CS or the Kicker KSS690. These are both under $250 and the Focals seem to have mixed reviews given the price. I don't have great hearing and the stock system doesn't sound bad to me, but I'm going to do sound deadening and I hate to do that and not swap out the cheap stock stuff.
Just want to add for the crossover, this is correct, components come with passive crossovers usually. But this applies only to non B&O Rangers.

The B&O system is more complicated. The front and rear door speakers are powered by the amplifier behind the rear seat. But the tweeters and center channel are powered by the head unit directly, no physical crossover in the truck. You still can replace tweeters and door speaker, but don't need to use the new crossover, it's handled by the headunit/amp.

Infinity will be more precise, clearer, and probably more powerful / better suited with stock radio as it's 3 ohms with higher sensitivity.

Kicker will probably sound would be warmer,smoother if you prefer, but to really fly they would need to be properly amplified.

Go infinity with stock radio (I think it's the REF697CF). Looks like it's discounted at CF, and even 200 open box
 

Flats

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The B&O system is more complicated. The front and rear door speakers are powered by the amplifier behind the rear seat. But the tweeters and center channel are powered by the head unit directly, no physical crossover in the truck. You still can replace tweeters and door speaker, but don't need to use the new crossover, it's handled by the headunit/amp.
To clarify, yes this is a Raptor with the B&O. So I can get the Infinity REF697CF and just ignore the crossover it ships with, correct? I definitely don't want to mess with an amp and I don't need them loud, just a little clearer. Hopefully the Infinity plus sound deadening will be a noticeable improvement.
 

Chuck2001

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To clarify, yes this is a Raptor with the B&O. So I can get the Infinity REF697CF and just ignore the crossover it ships with, correct? I definitely don't want to mess with an amp and I don't need them loud, just a little clearer. Hopefully the Infinity plus sound deadening will be a noticeable improvement.
Physical fitment are almost perfect, CF should include Metra 82-5606 adapter (if not I have a kit free for you as I'm using 6.5 woofers in my front doors), the Metra 72-5602, Metra 72-5605 harness.

For the tweeters, you should get a starfish bracket in the box. You'll need to use it to mount the tweeters in the pillars.

For the crossover part, you don't technically need to use the physical crossover and rewire stuff.

BUT, they will probably draw more power from stock amp / HU. Be careful with volume, and you might need to reduce treble (highs) in your sound settings as the crossover could be overwhelming.

The physical crossover would better "protect" the speakers because the frequency bands are probably slightly different than stock ones.

Doable, probably will be fine, with some caveats.

To be safer, you could use 4 ohms components to dray less power (but still with high sensitivity).


Now, I'm pretty sure the Kicker KS woud be a better safer fit for the specific case (B&O factory amp/HU). You'll have good sound and enough power.Physical fit still great.
 

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Chuck2001

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Could work with the Alpine, it's a more refine sound, though less efficient so they will need more power from the stock amp to produce similar output with stock amp. Kicker is the better match for your application. Alpine would probably need an amp to shine.

For the sub, TBH i recommend pretty much the same thing over and over. The hideaway sub is a "ok" solution for bass.

If you're willing to sacrifice the small area under the passenger side rear seat, the better and cheaper solution is to install a Stealthtech 10" sub box made for Ranger (apply sound treatment to the outside of the box).

You then add the wire harness (plug and play, from soundgoodstereo) and a DSP AMP, the Kicker KEY500.1. This part is the magical stuff. It will auto fix the rolloff and EQ the factory bass signal and improve it, and amplify as well for a 10" shallow sub. I recommend the Kicker 48CWRT102 for awesome value.

You connect the dual voice coil in parallel to get 1 ohm, and that amp is stable at this impedance, 400w RMS.

Both solution, you will need a 8 gauge amp power kit also.

That thing will fly. Cheaper and wayyyyy better than the Hideaway + KEYLOC / harness (to fix the bass rolloff)

Box is about 150$
47KEY500.1 is about 240$
Kicker 48CWRT102 is 175$
Harness is 51$ (RCA)
8 gauge power kit about 60 USD

Hideaway + Keyloc + Power kit is 750 USD....crazy
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