What oil will you be running after your 1st oil change?

[CoastieN70]

First off, I'm really confused with modern oil specifications and appreciate your help. A lot has changed since my first vehicle (62 Chevy short bed) (yep I'm an old fart).

I did my first oil change on the Ranger at the dealership at around 1,000 miles on it, and had them fill it with Motorcraft 5W-30 Full Synthetic. I overpaid at $122 for an oil change. I had previously checked the owners manual and it says to use 5W-30 that meets Ford specification WSS-M2C946-B1. So, I am now trying to find a way to get an oil change that meets the Ford spec, without paying another arm or leg to the dealer. The local oil change shop down the street from me will do a Mobil 1 oil change for $89.95, and Mobil is offering a $12 rebate until October 2019.

Back in April when I did the oil change, Mobil 1 5W-30 did not show to be WSS-M2C946-B1 certified per the Mobil 1 website. But now, the Mobil 1 website shows that the 5W-30 Mobil 1 meets the Ford WSS-M2C946-B1 specification.

So to further add to my confusion, on my trip today to Walmart, I checked out the label on a gallon jug of Mobil 1 5W-30 and it did NOT have the WSS-M2C946-B1 specification listed.

Anybody have any further info? Did Mobil 1 5W-30 just recently obtain the WSS-M2C946-B1 certification through a reformulation, or do all previous jugs/bottles/cans of Mobil 1 5W-30 meet the Ford WSS-M2C946-B1 specification?

1000 mile oil change!?! Why? Your dealer took you to the cleaners, they know full well that there is ZERO reason to do a 1000 mile initial oil change on a 2019 vehicle. 5000 is almost too soon but that is my target. Right now I have a service package set up for 5000 mile intervals with 5W30 SynBlend oil but I am considering switching to full synthetic and extending to 7500 mile interval.
Modern oil is LOADED with additives that extend oil and engine life, this is not 1960's Quaker State or Pennzoil of yesteryear. Additionally Modern engines are built to MUCH STRICTER Tolerances keeping blow-by to a minimum and oil cleaner than ever before.
Additionally, you vehicle is equipped with an "Intelligent Oil-Life Monitor" that lets you know the usable oil life left in you engine. The manual says to get your oil when indicated by this when it says to change the oil but not to exceed 10000 miles or 1 year (page 425).
Extreme operating conditions, towing, dusty sandy conditions, frequent off road use, then 5000 miles or 6 months. (pages 436 to 428)
ALL THIS WITH SYYBLEND not Full Syn.
So save yourself some BIG bucks and fight that urge to waste oil. At the very least 5000 miles or 6 month interval...

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[One Ranger]

1000 mile oil change!?! Why? Your dealer took you to the cleaners, they know full well that there is ZERO reason to do a 1000 mile initial oil change on a 2019 vehicle. 5000 is almost too soon but that is my target. Right now I have a service package set up for 5000 mile intervals with 5W30 SynBlend oil but I am considering switching to full synthetic and extending to 7500 mile interval.
Modern oil is LOADED with additives that extend oil and engine life, this is not 1960's Quaker State or Pennzoil of yesteryear. Additionally Modern engines are built to MUCH STRICTER Tolerances keeping blow-by to a minimum and oil cleaner than ever before.
Additionally, you vehicle is equipped with an "Intelligent Oil-Life Monitor" that lets you know the usable oil life left in you engine. The manual says to get your oil when indicated by this when it says to change the oil but not to exceed 10000 miles or 1 year (page 425).
Extreme operating conditions, towing, dusty sandy conditions, frequent off road use, then 5000 miles or 6 months. (pages 436 to 428)
ALL THIS WITH SYYBLEND not Full Syn.
So save yourself some BIG bucks and fight that urge to waste oil. At the very least 5000 miles or 6 month interval...

Thanks for the reply. Oh, I forgot to mention that I do not plan to continue the 1,000 mile oil changes. I do believe in getting the factory oil out around 1,000 miles to flush out any metal particles floating around from the break in period. I admit it may be overkill, it’s it’s just a one time event. Afterward, I will do oil changes per the computer oil life monitor recommendation, 6 Months, or 7500 miles (whichever comes first).

So, any ideas regarding my question about Mobil 1 and the Ford spec?

 

[CoastieN70]

Thanks for the reply. Oh, I forgot to mention that I do not plan to continue the 1,000 mile oil changes. I do believe in getting the factory oil out around 1,000 miles to flush out any metal particles floating around from the break in period. I admit it may be overkill, it’s it’s just a one time event. Afterward, I will do oil changes per the computer oil life monitor recommendation, 6 Months, or 7500 miles (whichever comes first).

So, any ideas regarding my question about Mobil 1 and the Ford spec?

Mobile 1 is generally up to or exceeds Fords Specs but sometimes the containers lag in listing those specs. So all in all you are good with Mobile 1. Have you checked out Royal Purple or AMSOIL? Both are outstanding and I hesitate to say better than Mobile 1 but...

 

[Rp930]

https://mobiloil.com/en/product-sel...=TGFyaWF0IDQtQ3lsIDIuMyAoSCkgKEdBUyk=&Temp=No

 

[NickTheEnforcer]

Im not even going to run oil.
Its terrible for the environment.
My first oil change I'm dumping it down the storm drain. Good riddance.

I plan on adding a can of Red Bull every morning. I'm pretty sure things will work just fine.

AOC [green new deal] sez gas engines cause cancer and stilborn babies. SO I'm thinking of either roller skates or a rickshaw.

 

[NickTheEnforcer]

I've always been partial to Castrol Synthetic and Wix filters. Coming in a close second would be the Ford Synthetic and Ford Filter.

wix filters, thats my go to when available..

 

[NickTheEnforcer]

After the free oil changes provided by the dealership I'll run Amalie synthetic(My company label brand). SN Plus certified and Dexos Gen 2 approved.

After the break in, Oil changes will be done pretty much yearly since I don't travel extreme distances but am in an extreme weather area. Works out to around 7k oil change duration.

My last three vehicles came with 'free' oil changes...of those I've had numerous over-fill instances, a few under-filled which while is still a problem is not as bad as over filling, over inflated tires, missing oil caps resulting in oil literally everywhere except where I actually want it, missing under frame plates/shroud bolts, destroyed oem mud guards [they crushed during lifting], stripped lug nut & scratched rims. Plus the normal grease-monkey dirt/grease from hands & shoes on my carpet, steering wheel, arm rest & door/handle. *this was at numerous dealerships from ford, jeep, dodge over the years. I'm about done with sub-par 'work' that i have to re-do, bitch about or watch like a hawk.

SO when the dealership extended me the coupon book for 5 free LOF's w/rotations I said "Absolutely NOT." I have a 16 year old who I've trained to be a car-guy since he was 3 and we will continue to service everything except warranty/tsb's etc.

Sorry I went on a RANT. I will prob use a synth, which & weight not finalized & WIX filter which is my 1st choice.

 

[Sarge104]

*this was at numerous dealerships from ford, jeep, dodge over the years. I'm about done with sub-par 'work' that i have to re-do, bitch about or watch like a hawk.

SO when the dealership extended me the coupon book for 5 free LOF's w/rotations I said "Absolutely NOT." I have a 16 year old who I've trained to be a car-guy since he was 3 and we will continue to service everything except warranty/tsb's etc.

Sorry I went on a RANT. I will prob use a synth, which & weight not finalized & WIX filter which is my 1st choice.

Just went through a tonneau cover replacement at my local dealership duel to faulty materials in the last one they installed before I purchased the vehicle. I now have to go back and re-center the cover again so it closes and stays closed...

 

[kieefer]

I’m going to use my points for oil changes using full synthetic until I run out, then do it myself using Mobil1.

1st done last week at 5k

 

[MSG W]

letting FORD do my oil changes, so i am guessing ford oil and filter. getting to old and fat to crawl when i can pay someone t do it for me.

 

[CoastieN70]

letting FORD do my oil changes, so i am guessing ford oil and filter. getting to old and fat to crawl when i can pay someone t do it for me.

Ditto that. I bought a Service Package so Ford it is, every 5000 miles but I may have then switch to full synthetic and extend to 7500 miles...

 

[Stangman570]

Ford Motorcraft for me. Over the years I have modified and raced all of my Mustangs. Nothing but Ford Motorcraft oil and filter, everything else and your just dumping money down the drain. I have torn down and rebuilt multiple older 5.0's and 4.6 engines and they have looked new inside with no varnish or build up. Have ran boosted, nitrous, and n/a with multiple weekend trips to the track. My experience nothing beats Motorcraft hands down. I giggle inside each time I see someone buying the most expensive synthetic. I've worked in the semiconductor industry for years and have slipped samples of my motorcraft oil for testing and have always found the viscosity and breakdown to be within the norms. The true secret, change your oil at your scheduled intervals and all will be fine.

 

[NickTheEnforcer]

Nothing but Ford Motorcraft for me. Over the years I have modified and raced all of my Mustangs. Nothing but Ford Motorcraft oil and filter, everything else and your just dumping money down the drain. I have torn down and rebuilt multiple older 5.0's and 4.6 engines and they have looked new inside with no varnish or build up. Have ran boosted, nitrous, and n/a with multiple weekend trips to the track. My experience nothing beats Motorcraft hands down. I giggle inside each time I see someone buying the most expensive synthetic. I've worked in the semiconductor industry for years and have slipped samples of my motorcraft oil for testing and have always found the viscosity and breakdown to be within the norms. The true secret, change your oil at your scheduled intervals and all will be fine.

I just asked the asst. svs mgr at the dealership 'who' makes Motorcraft oil, He said Connoco-Phillips & the filters are made by Purolator to their 'spec's' whatever that means... just in case anyone was wondering.
They do seem to be heftier than the std puro filter if you compare side-by-side..

Update: 12/19/19. after 1500 miles the Farm 'n fleet synthetic I got [made by Citgo] was already filthy. I have not been doing any severe service of dusty off-road stuff. I'm going to try Castrol GTX and see how I like that, spec's seem really good. The home depot has 5 quart jugs super price and Veterans get addt'l 10% off.

 

[RedlandRanger]

I just asked the asst. svs mgr at the dealership 'who' makes Motorcraft oil, He said Connoco-Phillips & the filters are made by Purolator to their 'spec's' whatever that means... just in case anyone was wondering.
They do seem to be heftier than the std puro filter if you compare side-by-side..

Whatever you do don't buy a crappy Fram filter - at least not the orange ones - they are garbage now. It is one reason I started using Wix filters exclusively. There is a Youtube video of a guy disassembling various oil filters to see the differences. It is very enlightening.

 

[NickTheEnforcer]

Whatever you do don't buy a crappy Fram filter - at least not the orange ones - they are garbage now. It is one reason I started using Wix filters exclusively. There is a Youtube video of a guy disassembling various oil filters to see the differences. It is very enlightening.

Agree.. FRAM is trash, they have a great marketing campaign/budget. I also like WIX, NAPA silver/gold, M1, hastings if you can find them are still a solid choice.

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