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Motor oil and filter - does it matter what kind?

momike

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I’m asking both for my anal retentive 500 mile oil change and also going forward. Does it matter what brand oil and filter I use if I stick to a diligent oil change schedule of 5000 miles once I have done my first several changes through the break-in?

In particular, if I want to be lazy and let the Valvoline oil change center in town do my oil changes. Am I doing my rig a disservice? There is a Ford dealer in town, but I am guessing it would be a much bigger pain in the neck to get the changes done there.

For what it’s worth my bias is to believe that lubricant matter a hell of a lot for engine health. But I’m not sophisticated beyond that.
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cc1999

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I let the dealer do all mine, with our EB engines I use Motorcraft full synthetic.
 

Glisch

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Project farm did a series with a ton of tests on motor oil. It was entertaining. The tldr is that there are premium motor oils that perform better (amsoil and pennzoil best of the best). But even the super tech and Kirkland oils are very good and available for much cheaper. I just use Kirkland since it’s so cheap and still very good.

I don’t recall Valvoline from his tests but I’d imagine it’s just like the rest.

Here’s the playlist for anyone who wants to watch them:
 

stuartmunto

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I try to get oil that meets the minimum spec that’s detailed in the owners manual. I also only use a fully synthetic - I don’t bother with semi-synthetic as the cost difference is negligible

however, any new clean oil is better than old dirty oil
 

jordantii

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For what it’s worth I did not change my filter at the 500 mile interval. I ran the factory fill oil as well. I will change to full synthetic at about 3k miles. I will only use the motorcraft filter when I do change the filter. I do all my own maint

also, I would never use a quick change oil place. If you don’t want to use the dealer then find a good independent or change it yourself.

As much as I enjoy project farm for lots of “tests” I trust The motor oil geek when it comes to oil.

This is just my opinion.
 

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Ron Quixote

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My biggest issue with your scheme is the use of a Quik-E-Lube. It wouldn’t surprise me if they tried to do something really dumb, like wrench a 2024 filter onto a 2025. If you’re not going to do it yourself, I’d take it to the dealer or to a respected shop.
 

mos

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I refer to owners manual . Use the dealer ,5000 to 7500 changes . Motorcraft syn blend as per manual.
 

JrHDRanger

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I’m at 14000 miles and have done 4 oil changes, I’m at 5000 mile intervals now. I use Motorcraft filter and Penzoil Platinum full synthetic. It’s worth installing a Ronin drain plug when you do your first oil change as it dumps all 7 quarts in about 10 seconds. Huge mess. With the Ronin I can change oil without spilling a single drop.
 

purdyd

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I’m asking both for my anal retentive 500 mile oil change and also going forward. Does it matter what brand oil and filter I use if I stick to a diligent oil change schedule of 5000 miles once I have done my first several changes through the break-in?

In particular, if I want to be lazy and let the Valvoline oil change center in town do my oil changes. Am I doing my rig a disservice? There is a Ford dealer in town, but I am guessing it would be a much bigger pain in the neck to get the changes done there.

For what it’s worth my bias is to believe that lubricant matter a hell of a lot for engine health. But I’m not sophisticated beyond that.

well, I would go full synthetic.

and there is a ford spec for oil for the Ranger WSS-M2C961-A1

and valvoline full synerhic says they meet wss-m2c971-a1 which is a newer more stringent? Spec

I am not an oil nerd but just from looking around if you use a full synthetic oil and reasonable changing intervals, 5k, you should be fine

if your local Valvoline service makes it convenient to keep a regular service schedule and you can get full synthetic oil, I’d say do it.

better than putting it off because you don’t have time to go to a dealer.

sure you could get a guy making a mistake but they change oil all day every day.

i will say the one nice thing about doing your own oil change is you can inspect your car, filters, fluids, battery terminals, tires.

so that might be a vote for a dealer service If you don’t want feel confident in that

or you could do your local service for routine changes and have a dealer change at the regular service intervals 10k, etc.

ford dealers do offer a mobile service and I would look into that for the vehicle inspection intervals.
 
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Glisch

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As much as I enjoy project farm for lots of “tests” I trust The motor oil geek when it comes to oil.

This is just my opinion.
They came to the same conclusion. Project farm is just entertaining, oil geek is not imo.

Super tech, Amazon basics, Kirkland are all made by the same company. It’s a fraction of the cost and very good performance. Very slightly worse than amsoil / pennzoil. To some that tiny improvement is worth the cost, but it’s realistic impact is insignificant.

I would also be hesitant with the quick change shops, but not from the quality of oil, just the shop practices. A shop close to me got caught putting old oil in during a change a year or two ago. It was in the paper and a couple of news outlets ran it. Somehow they are still open for business today

 

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MK8.5 Golf R

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Penzoil ultra platinum and purolator filter is what I use, less than 50 bucks, I change my own, valvomax drain valve, removing and installing the new filter is a little tricky but not too difficult.
 

superj

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A local quick change place near me has not fully tightened the pan bolts on multiple vehicles and 3 or 4 guys from work had their kid's cars drain the oil before they got home, causing the engine to start knocking. No one has won in suits though because the place keeps saying it wasnt leaking when it left so you did something and it becomes an impasse
 

Chuck2001

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Whatever 0W30 (for my cold winters...) or 5W30 at discount price that is near Ford specs, and I like as well if the oil is Dexos Gen3 rated.

WSS-M2C961-A1 for 5W30

WSS-M2C963-A1 for 0W30

I do 3k miles max, lot of short drives, cold days,...the turbos are cooking the oil.

Pennzoil Plat, Mobil 1 AFE, are often in sale at my local store. Mobil 1 is the only one I find at a good value for the 0W30 spec.

Might try Castrol if on sale (Edge DX 0W30)

Here's a page on bronco6g forum listing the fluidswith the right spec ; first tab for engine oil

 
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waffleso_0

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For what it’s worth I did not change my filter at the 500 mile interval. I ran the factory fill oil as well. I will change to full synthetic at about 3k miles. I will only use the motorcraft filter when I do change the filter. I do all my own maint

also, I would never use a quick change oil place. If you don’t want to use the dealer then find a good independent or change it yourself.

As much as I enjoy project farm for lots of “tests” I trust The motor oil geek when it comes to oil.

This is just my opinion.
Yeah, I did mine at 3362 miles. Just when i had time. Installed the Ronin plug and now next oil change will be easy! I use Valvoline full synthetic.

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