Motor oil and filter - does it matter what kind?

[JrHDRanger]

A local quick change place near me has not fully tightened the pan bolts on multiple vehicles and 3 or 4 guys from work had their kid's cars drain the oil before they got home, causing the engine to start knocking. No one has won in suits though because the place keeps saying it wasnt leaking when it left so you did something and it becomes an impasse

I had a Jeep Patriot once that had the oil filter cross threaded at an oil change place. After hours of destroying the filter trying to get it off doing the next oil change 5000 miles later, I had to have it towed to a shop. They got it off, but the threaded oil filter neck was destroyed and it was cast as part of the block. Cross threaded filter ended up being an engine replacement. I have always done my own oil changes since, lesson learned.

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[natethegreat42]

I’m asking both for my anal retentive 500 mile oil change and also going forward. Does it matter what brand oil and filter I use if I stick to a diligent oil change schedule of 5000 miles once I have done my first several changes through the break-in?

In particular, if I want to be lazy and let the Valvoline oil change center in town do my oil changes. Am I doing my rig a disservice? There is a Ford dealer in town, but I am guessing it would be a much bigger pain in the neck to get the changes done there.

For what it’s worth my bias is to believe that lubricant matter a hell of a lot for engine health. But I’m not sophisticated beyond that.

Alright, so you will get lots of different opinions on this.
Here is what I do - I actually change my oil every 3000 miles. When my father purchased an F150 with the 3.5 ecoboost in it, a family friend mechanic recommended he consider changing oil every 3000 with the turbos involved. Just better to have cleaner oil than risk anything getting in those narrow passageways in this engine. So I follow that recommendation, which means I use the Motorcraft Synthetic Blend. I’m not saying those using the Full Synthetic are wrong, I just don’t see a point in buying more expensive oil if I’m going to be changing it every few months.

So bottom line is - as long as it’s changed at the latest every 5000 and the oil is any kind of synthetic I would say you are probably fine. But I am no mechanic - so take that for what it’s worth.

 

[Chuck2001]

Is it me or 971 and 973 specs are out now?

Wondering if we can put those new specs in the RR.

I see Petro Canada has updated its lineup both the blend 5w30 and the synthetics 0W30 and 5W30 as I think they are supplying the motorcraft oil for Canadian dealers.

 

[Uncle Buck]

For what it’s worth I did not change my filter at the 500 mile interval. I ran the factory fill oil as well. I will change to full synthetic at about 3k miles. I will only use the motorcraft filter when I do change the filter.

↑ This. I would tend to stick with OEM filters. Here's why.

I worked 40 years in the powersports industry an I had a customer who worked for a filter manufacturer. He would buy a lot of OEM filters and send them off to China or Korea where they made aftermarket versions of these filters. They made air, oil, fuel and cabin air filters for a lot of OEM and aftermarket companies. His advise was to stick with OEM, if not OEM then Wix was his recommended aftermarket filter. The reason being not all manufacturers make their filter medium.
They would send out bids and whoever has the lowest bid wins that contract.

So, are you willing to take a chance on an aftermarket filter that was manufactured as cheaply as possible so the manufacturer can make a higher profit, or OEM. I think high quality filters are as important as high quality oil. I'll pay the extra $5-$10 for OEM.

 

[Buellsox]

Only AMSOIL full synthetic & factory Motorcraft oil filters.

First change at 1,500 then at 3,000 and waiting to do the last one at 5,000 once I get there. Then I’ll never go past about 3-4K or 6 months max whichever comes first (drive a company truck so my miles stay somewhat low on my personal rigs). And I do it myself.
Do that to everything I’ve ever owned and it’s served me extremely well. Never had any major engine issues on any on my Ford’s and I’ve owned a lot of them in nearly 35+ years.

Get yourself the UPR (highly recommend) or Ronin upgraded drain plug and these trucks (at least the Raptor) are one of the easiest oil changes out there. Teach yourself and you’ll have it made & save yourself some money in the long run.

AMSOIL full synth oil & Motorcraft o/f

 

[Ron Quixote]

Amazing that people care about saving a few bucks on motor oil to put in a $40-50k vehicle. Mobil 1 and Pennzoil Ultra Platinum are often on sale for around $30/jug. Either will be more than good enough.

Some of the freakier members of BiTOG brag about going 20k between changes and all I can think is WHY??

 

[Glisch]

Amazing that people care about saving a few bucks on motor oil to put in a $40-50k vehicle. Mobil 1 and Pennzoil Ultra Platinum are often on sale for around $30/jug. Either will be more than good enough.

Some of the freakier members of BiTOG brag about going 20k between changes and all I can think is WHY??

10 quarts (2 jugs) of Kirkland full synthetic 5-30 cost me $36

That’s almost half the price per change, and I change it about 3 times a year. I’m also changing it on 3 other vehicles 2ish times a year. It’s not a lot, but it adds up to a couple hundred bucks each year.

When all the tests I’ve seen by reputable channels show no significant difference, why not? It’s not about penny pinching, I’ll spend money where I see benefit, I just don’t see it here.

I don’t know what BiTOG is, but that just sounds insane though

 

[jordantii]

10 quarts (2 jugs) of Kirkland full synthetic 5-30 cost me $36

That’s almost half the price per change, and I change it about 3 times a year. I’m also changing it on 3 other vehicles 2ish times a year. It’s not a lot, but it adds up to a couple hundred bucks each year.

When all the tests I’ve seen by reputable channels show no significant difference, why not? It’s not about penny pinching, I’ll spend money where I see benefit, I just don’t see it here.

I don’t know what BiTOG is, but that just sounds insane though

Bob is The Oil Guy

 

[Onceaneagle]

I use the dealer every 5k. I have been using full synthetic and new filter each time. Years ago I used Jiffy Lube or changed it myself but since turbo engines I let my dealer do it. A question: I am considering getting a Ronin plug and asking the dealer to put it in at the first change. Anyone asked their dealer to do that? Anyone use any other aftermarket plug other than Ronin?

 

[Maybe]

So here is my experience over the years with Fords and Oil Analysis from Blackstone labs.

Ive alway ran Synthetic- Pennzoil Platinum, Quaker State Ultimate, Supertech (there 15k mile and 20k formulas) and Mobile 1. All have run fine and showed pretty similar results. I’d recommend any of them for 5k changes. Regarding my 5.0s they have all been able to run to at least 7.5k except my 24 Mustang as they run so hot I wouldn’t go past 6k. With my ecoboosts (2.7 until this Ranger which is a 2.3) I wouldn’t go much past 6k due to the Fuel oil dilution these things have. I haven’t done an oil analysis on this truck as I haven’t had time as I had been driving cross country when i did my changes. I need to do one this weekend but haven’t found my sample bottle lol. But I’m running Mobile 1 in the Ranger as I’ve been getting it for $25 for a 5 qt jug.

 

[Ron Quixote]

So here is my experience over the years with Fords and Oil Analysis from Blackstone labs.

Ive alway ran Synthetic- Pennzoil Platinum, Quaker State Ultimate, Supertech (there 15k mile and 20k formulas) and Mobile 1. All have run fine and showed pretty similar results. I’d recommend any of them for 5k changes. Regarding my 5.0s they have all been able to run to at least 7.5k except my 24 Mustang as they run so hot I wouldn’t go past 6k. With my ecoboosts (2.7 until this Ranger which is a 2.3) I wouldn’t go much past 6k due to the Fuel oil dilution these things have. I haven’t done an oil analysis on this truck as I haven’t had time as I had been driving cross country when i did my changes. I need to do one this weekend but haven’t found my sample bottle lol. But I’m running Mobile 1 in the Ranger as I’ve been getting it for $25 for a 5 qt jug.

These turbos also run hot, which increases the odds of oil shearing. People didn't used to talk about shearing a lot in the oil forums; now they do. One of the best ways to address the issue is to simply change more frequently. 5k seems to be the sweet spot with these hotter-running engines.

 

[Maybe]

I forgot to put I use Motorcraft filters. Currently use the FL500s for my 25 Ranger.

 

[BriSco]

Yeah, I did mine at 3362 miles. Just when i had time. Installed the Ronin plug and now next oil change will be easy! I use Valvoline full synthetic.

Watch this video:

I've watched that video before. Great content. My comments: conventional oil, not even semi synthetic in one and full sytnhetic in the other. 500k miles on each with 10K oil change intervals. No oil related engine failure on either one. Tells me what t I've learned over 50 years of driving, changing my own oil and wrenching on all my own stuff.
Oil brand doesn't matter, as long as it meets recommended weight and mfg. oil and change specs. No one keeps a vehicle 500k miles. I've always used the correct spec oil, regardless of brand and OEM filters. Changed at 7.5 to 10k and have never had an oil related failure. I drive my stuff pretty hard with lots of towing. Typically trade at 200k or so.

Boutique and premium oils a feel good item making marketers lots of money. Anyone ever wonder why European OCI's on the same vehicle/engine combo at 50-100% longer? And their oil choices are very limited compared to ours.

I'm not an engine design engineer and as such don't think I'm smarter they they are. I don't second guess them. I use what is recommended and change it as recommended. That method has served me well over the years, on lots of cars, trucks, motorcycles, farm equipment, etc.

 

[RichD]

I buy Mobil 1 at Costco. Did my first change at 966 miles and the second 5268. I use a Fram Ultra Sythetic filter. I currently have 7120 miles on the 2.3 and it just turned a year old this month. No, I'm not this anal, but the app has all the data and super easy to reference.

 

[Buellsox]

I use the dealer every 5k. I have been using full synthetic and new filter each time. Years ago I used Jiffy Lube or changed it myself but since turbo engines I let my dealer do it. A question: I am considering getting a Ronin plug and asking the dealer to put it in at the first change. Anyone asked their dealer to do that? Anyone use any other aftermarket plug other than Ronin?

I run the UPR drain plug. Basically the same thing. Love it! Makes dumping the oil a breeze and mess free. Plus it adds a magnet to give you a little visual cue to any BIG surprises once you pull the entire plug after the oil drains out the center port. That gets the last couple of ounces up against the plug itself and gets you that mag check & clean off.

Buy it and you’ll never again curse the oil Niagara Falls of that Ford yellow plug. Worth every penny!

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