Installing bed side steps on Ranger XL / XLT - DIY instructions

[superj]

holy cow, that is my exact fears on the interior stuff.

the cv axle stuff is crazy. i wonder if there is a way that you will end up having to mod the exhaust to fix it in case ford just keeps kicking the can down the road to try and run the warranty out. like if they just keep changing the axle and then you are stuck later on with the same issue

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[camocustom]

holy cow, that is my exact fears on the interior stuff.

the cv axle stuff is crazy. i wonder if there is a way that you will end up having to mod the exhaust to fix it in case ford just keeps kicking the can down the road to try and run the warranty out. like if they just keep changing the axle and then you are stuck later on with the same issue

Funny you mention that. The bronco guys are fabbing up $10-20 heat shields with reported success. I am handy enough to do the same if it comes down to it. I didnt get a good look under the truck yet though to see if its as close as the broncos are, on those the CV boot is almost kissing the exhaust. I'm surprised they haven't melted in those.

 

[camocustom]

Note on the rear bumper/hitch bolts, Ford uses large M16 fasteners because the hitch is part of the frames load path - effectively part of the truck’s rear structure. When towing, loads from the receiver transfer through the hitch crossmember into the frame rails via those six bolts.

At the factory torque of 146 lb-ft (195 N·m), each bolt generates very high clamp load. Across all six bolts, that adds up to well over 100,000 lbs of total clamp force holding the hitch structure tight to the frame. That clamping force creates friction between the hitch bracket and frame, which is what actually carries most of the towing load rather than the bolts taking the load in shear.

The bolts don’t carry the towing load directly. Instead:

• The clamping force squeezes the hitch bracket to the frame
• Friction between the steel surfaces carries the load
• That’s why proper torque is so important.

When you remove them for steps or hitch work:

• Breakaway torque feels like 200+ lb-ft
• Clean the threads
• Start bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading
• Snug them first, then torque in stages.
• Alternate left/right sides so the bumper reinforcement seats evenly.
• Torque back to 146 lb-ft
• Recheck torque after a short drive
  
  

@josephp732

I was going to go the route of just loosening and using a jack. It sounds like your suggestion and best practice is to remove and clean etc, then re-torque. Is that correct? Marking the bolts to start is a must of course, but I want to make sure this is done right especially since I do tow from time to time.

 

[superj]

depends on what it looks like when you are under there. mine was very clean so i just lowered it with the jack and then realigned it and tightened those bolts up like it calls for

 

[josephp732]

Yea I was as well, got tired of the mail and notifications and emails..... I asked them nicely to take care of my truck, its literally brand new still. 6000 miles, got it very end of August 25.

I go to recreate the chirping sound and while I was waiting for the Shop Foreman, I checked the interior, passenger side had pry marks and stress bends along with a plier or clamp mark STAMPED into the trim, the driver pillar trim had discoloring on the stress bends from prying it down, headliner was disgusting. It all happened so fast, I was really concerned with the noise, but showed the shop foreman immediately. I didnt get to get any pictures and I hate myself for it, but they are fixing or have already fixed it. (Its been in their hands since Wednesday 3/18)

I am hopefully hearing today about the chirping. Its the same issue Bronco's were having, appears that that the CV boot on the transfer case side of the front shaft sits VERY close to the exhaust. Its heating the grease and liquifying it and it then settles in the pleating of the boot, causing the joint to not be greased properly and a low speed (under 30mph) chirp under load.

I'm not going to do the airbag recall. When I sell the truck the next owner can do it. I didn't know about the CV issue - do you have more info? Recall notice? I show two active recalls in my Ford app: 25C41 - Side curtain airbag and 26C19 - Integrated trailer module itrm loss of communication.

 

[josephp732]

@josephp732

I was going to go the route of just loosening and using a jack. It sounds like your suggestion and best practice is to remove and clean etc, then re-torque. Is that correct? Marking the bolts to start is a must of course, but I want to make sure this is done right especially since I do tow from time to time.

Yes, I do recommend removing the bolts and cleaning the threads.

I used a floor jack with a towel under the hitch mount for support. I left one bolt partially installed and removed the other five, which gave me plenty of flexibility to swing the hitch/bumper out of the way. It’s not particularly heavy, so it’s manageable.

This approach made it much easier to remove and reinstall the trim—having all the bolts out on the working side and just one loosely installed on the opposite side really helps with positioning.

 

[camocustom]

I'm not going to do the airbag recall. When I sell the truck the next owner can do it. I didn't know about the CV issue - do you have more info? Recall notice? I show two active recalls in my Ford app: 25C41 - Side curtain airbag and 26C19 - Integrated trailer module itrm loss of communication.

There isnt an official recall or TSB or anything. There was apparently a TSB and a recall both related to the driveshaft assembly for the bronco.

 

[camocustom]

Wish me luck! Starting my install now. Taking my time....

 

[camocustom]

Thanks again to all that have poured sweat and expletives, and for coming up with this write up. Many expletives were expressed. Last picture is the extra 4 bolts needed (come in pack of 4)...

 

[superj]

Nice. Looks good

 

[josephp732]

Excellent work!

 

[BoostCreep]

I was looking to add a set to my '25 STX. Apart from Alibaba (sp?), I checked on Ford and didn't see anything. Then checked Amazon and they're now 874. Link to crazy price on Amazon
I'd rather get a genuine part from Ford for this... I'm a fatass and don't want anything sagging more than it needs to.

 

[KStiff]

I was looking to add a set to my '25 STX. Apart from Alibaba (sp?), I checked on Ford and didn't see anything. Then checked Amazon and they're now 874. Link to crazy price on Amazon
I'd rather get a genuine part from Ford for this... I'm a fatass and don't want anything sagging more than it needs to.

Yep, checked my Amazon link. No longer in stock. At $874, I would go with Ford also. Go to your dealership

 

[HighDesertRanger]

You can find them on eBay for around $500, shipping included. I'm betting they're still quite a bit more from Ford.

 

[josephp732]

I BELIEVE that I looked up all the correct OEM Ford parts, with a decent discount here they are:

Left Rear Mount Assembly - N1WZ-E20023-B: $255
Right Rear Mount Assembly - N1WZ-E20022-B: $281
Left Step - N1WZ-6020041-A: $173
Right Step - N1WZ-6020040-A: $173
Left Truck Bed Molding - N1WZ-2620013-K: $177
Right Truck Bed Molding - N1WZ-2620012-K: $177

Total: $1,236

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