Adding Options at Dealership After Delivery

[RangerDangerStranger]

It's mostly tabs though there are a few screws. One of which is hidden behind the fender flare and is hard to access. I was unable to get the fender flares off without about breaking several of the tab attachments on the flares themselves.

Sounds like a pain. There's a couple of Youtube vids mainly of front flares being removed. All say your gonna break clips but are availble from ford. Just white plastic clips. i'll get a few. I have all the parts coming for a Rt side install thanks to your table! But can't find the front Support bracket on line. Gotta go into the dealer to get it?

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[tpack424]

Sounds like a pain. There's a couple of Youtube vids mainly of front flares being removed. All say your gonna break clips but are availble from ford. Just white plastic clips. i'll get a few. I have all the parts coming for a Rt side install thanks to your table! But can't find the front Support bracket on line. Gotta go into the dealer to get it?

Not all dealers have access to it. My dealer does not, but the ones that come up on the ford parts website seem to when you contract them directly. It's a new part so they initially have issues locating it in the system but then do find it if you insist it's there.

Go to https://parts.ford.com, put in your location and the part number and search for dealers. Several should come up with phone numbers and emails. Contact them directly. I found calling was better than emailing as several of the emails weren't up to date.

 

[jedadiah]

To install the J-braces, you have to partially remove the flares. The instructions have a trick for removing the clips. If you push an 8mm socket over them from behind, they will pull out easily. My kit came with a few extra, but I didn't need any of them.

 

[RangerDangerStranger]

Not all dealers have access to it. My dealer does not, but the ones that come up on the ford parts website seem to when you contract them directly. It's a new part so they initially have issues locating it in the system but then do find it if you insist it's there.

Go to https://parts.ford.com, put in your location and the part number and search for dealers. Several should come up with phone numbers and emails. Contact them directly. I found calling was better than emailing as several of the emails weren't up to date.

Can you give me the part number off the packaging for the Front Rt bracket? Or, alternativly, your contact that got it? My dealer cannot find it, though he tried! Could you also shed some light on what was involved with the rear bumper? You said you had to loosen it, just unplug the sensor harnes? Remove the bumper?- what's invloved. Great thanks for this write up, This is the last option i need to add to make the one i found equal to the factory order i was going to do. Many Thanks!

 

[tpack424]

The folks I bought them from won't ship them, so sending you two others that I know carry them. Not sure if they'll ship directly to you or not.

[email protected]

Nathan Goforth
Parts Counter
Direct Line: (970) 619-8802
Parts Line: (970) 667-5056 x405
[email protected]

Traveling for another three weeks so can't take a picture of packaging.

On the bumper removal, it is similar to this:

Remove the wiring harness, parking sensors, license plate lights, then rubber bumper pad on top. Then remove bolts for left side steel bumper and right side steel bumper (you don't need to take out the center part for the steps).

I can do a video when I'm back at the end of July.

Also, ask the dealer to match a 10% discount fordparts website and they should on the order.

 

[RangerDangerStranger]

For those following this thread as I was, I am also attempting this upgrade. I chatted with the OP, and he said go ahead and post what my experience has been, and what I'm really good at- ie: Critiqueing other peoples work! LoL! So got all the parts for just the Rt side from OP's list. The Front Bracket as stated, I had to stop by my local dealer, and he was able to pull up the parts from the diagram w/o a Vin, and order the part. Apperntly it's shipped from thier main parts hub- 7-10 days out. Now Cost wise- My experience- $840 a side. Yep that's what a $215 option will cost you PER SIDE. Got all my parts from 'OEM ford Parts Direct' a discount house, except the front bracket. It does order under the 20022 number. But yeah, that was my cost for the Rt side. I also believe i might be able to do the install w/o touching the bumper, from what i'm seeing. The 8mm socket onto the back of the clips looks like it's gonna be a big help. Thanks to TPack424 for doing the heavy lifting, hope my experience helps clarify the install for others. See you in 7-10 days! Chris.

 

[Gator21]

That price is painful… Might have to rethink doing both sides, but my OCD tendencies might drive me bonkers if I only do it on one side. Thank you both for updating the thread as you go along in the process.

 

[RangerDangerStranger]

Just picked up my "Front Bracket", Called "Reinforcement" on packaging N1WZ-E20022-B (right side). It's actually all 3 support bracket pieces pictured ( And previously listed in the parts table ) Front, rear and joining bracket. They are spot welded together. I have to return the Rear and joining bracket i previously ordered. So parts wise all you need is the step, this support Bracket assembly, and the body surround, and bolts HB-1 and HB-2. around 600.

 

[RangerDangerStranger]

So, completed the install on the Passengers side. Took about 2 -2 1/2 hours. Better and worse than i thought. first, you only need HB-1 and HB-2 bolts. No other hardware, it's either on the new part, like the white clips, or can be reused. Couple tricky parts, 1. First remove the inner wheel well lip retainer black push-pins 1/2 way up and across the bottom. There is also a T20 torx on the inner lip. Next, Use the 8mm socket to remove the white clips from the inside of the lip, you just need to remove the first 3, this will allow the lip to move enough to remove the other T20 Torx just under the lip/flare end. See pics.. There are 3 bolts holding the lower cover on, in addition to all the white clips, i got them all with the 8mm except there's one sort of enclosed where i had to use 2 long flat tips. Everything pulls out clean, but you can't remove it. The bumper is in the way. I also have the Tow hitch from the factory, instead of removing the entire bumper, loosen the bolts on the opposite side, then place a jack with some wood to reach under the side your working on, and take out the 3 bolts on your side. that will give you plenty of room the remove the panel. Make sure you make fore/aft, and side to side alignment marks on the bumper / tow hitch brackets before you loosen it. Now last trick, there's a locator pin on the top of the support bracket that will not go up because of a riveted plastic panel. I cut mine down to about 1/4", not needed anyway, and deburred it and slid it up there. Put the bracket in the front locator slot first. All in all, looks great! No damage and works well. I torqued the hitch bolts, 3 each side, big mothers- to 148ft'lbs. that was the previous Gen 5 spec. i am pretty sure they were under torqued from the factory, but not sure. Use blue Loctite. Thanks to tpack424 for posting this. I am now a happy camper.

 

[tpack424]

Did you find the torque specs for the bolts that mount the step bracket to the frame? What did you torque them to?

Working on a full write up for everyone and couldn't find those specs. One of mine broke off while trying to torque closer to 100 ft lbs so recommend less. I did 50.

So, completed the install on the Passengers side. Took about 2 -2 1/2 hours. Better and worse than i thought. first, you only need HB-1 and HB-2 bolts. No other hardware, it's either on the new part, like the white clips, or can be reused. Couple tricky parts, 1. First remove the inner wheel well lip retainer black push-pins 1/2 way up and across the bottom. There is also a T20 torx on the inner lip. Next, Use the 8mm socket to remove the white clips from the inside of the lip, you just need to remove the first 3, this will allow the lip to move enough to remove the other T20 Torx just under the lip/flare end. See pics.. There are 3 bolts holding the lower cover on, in addition to all the white clips, i got them all with the 8mm except there's one sort of enclosed where i had to use 2 long flat tips. Everything pulls out clean, but you can't remove it. The bumper is in the way. I also have the Tow hitch from the factory, instead of removing the entire bumper, loosen the bolts on the opposite side, then place a jack with some wood to reach under the side your working on, and take out the 3 bolts on your side. that will give you plenty of room the remove the panel. Make sure you make fore/aft, and side to side alignment marks on the bumper / tow hitch brackets before you loosen it. Now last trick, there's a locator pin on the top of the support bracket that will not go up because of a riveted plastic panel. I cut mine down to about 1/4", not needed anyway, and deburred it and slid it up there. Put the bracket in the front locator slot first. All in all, looks great! No damage and works well. I torqued the hitch bolts, 3 each side, big mothers- to 148ft'lbs. that was the previous Gen 5 spec. i am pretty sure they were under torqued from the factory, but not sure. Use blue Loctite. Thanks to tpack424 for posting this. I am now a happy camper.

 

[tpack424]

Here's are the installation steps. I did for both sides. The order sheet is listed in an earlier post. All in about $550/side. Pictures below of most steps as well.

Took me 4 hours to do both sides, but a lot of that was figuring out what to do. I would estimate 2-3 hours to replace both sides with the directions below.

• Remove mudflaps (if installed)
• Partially remove fender cover
  • Remove scrivets from fender cover
  • Remove torx screw from rear of fender cover
  • Remove two rear-most fender cover clips
    • This is sufficient to give access to hidden torx screw behind the fender cover which holds the side panel in place.
    • Use 8mm socket on interior to release clips
• Remove hidden torx screw (under the fender cover at the rear bottom)
  • This is necessary to remove the plastic side panel where the step will go
• Remove bumper cover
  • Remove license plate
  • Remove tow hitch connector
    • Release clip on interior side
    • Release front of connector from back by removing gray piece holding clip in place. Pull apart
  • Remove license plate lights x2
    • Two clips on interior, push to pull sensor outside
    • Then push clip to separate light from cable
  • Remove Parking sensors x6
    • Push clips on interior, then push parking sensor from exterior to interior
  • Remove rubber bumper cover
    • Two push rivets behind license plate
    • Tabs holding the rest of it down
• Remove right and left bumper sides
  • 13mm socket for three bolts (per side)
  • T-40 needed for 5 bolts (per side)
  • No need to remove the hitch or center bumper
• Remove plastic side panels
  • Remove 3 10mm bolts
    • 1 underneath on front side
    • 2 at back hidden on interior
  • Release 7 white clips and pull panel away
  • Remove two 15mm bolts at front
• Install metal step support bracket
  • Trim round locator pin on the top of each support bracket to 1/4”. Debur.
  • Insert bracket starting with the round locator pin first
  • Secure with 4 15mm bolts (use loctite). Estimated 50 lb ft of torque
• Insert new side panel cover
  • Click white tabs in place
  • Insert and tighten the 3 10mm bolts
  • Replace the torx 25 screw hidden under the fender cover
• Replace fender cover
  • Replace all scrivets
  • Replace torx 25 screw
• Replace mud flaps (if installed)
• Replace bumper
• Replace bumper cover
• Replace license plate lights, trailer hitch and license plate

 

[RangerDangerStranger]

Did you find the torque specs for the bolts that mount the step bracket to the frame? What did you torque them to?

Working on a full write up for everyone and couldn't find those specs. One of mine broke off while trying to torque closer to 100 ft lbs so recommend less. I did 50.

Nice write up!
You know, it's not critical. I used my calibrated bicep. I'd say I'm around 40. 100- YIKES! That's into sheet metal. Had to be a pain to get out.

Let me also say, you don't have to remove or even disassemble that bumper. You just need to loosen the far side and remove and support the side your working on, You don't need much to get the body panel out. Just my opinion, i did it that way, Save alot of work. thank you for creating this thread, and sourcing the parts!

 

[nek4life]

Was it worth it? Looking at some in-stock trucks and they don't have the side step. Not sure why the dealers aren't ordering them with this option. Seems like an inexpensive upgrade if you get it from the factory.

 

[RangerDangerStranger]

Was it worth it? Looking at some in-stock trucks and they don't have the side step. Not sure why the dealers aren't ordering them with this option. Seems like an inexpensive upgrade if you get it from the factory.

For me, yeah. Only did one side, cost me about 600 bucks. I found a truck almost exactly like i was about to factory order, except, missing 1. Mud flaps, and 2 rear steps. Will do the Drivers side some time down thwe road. must have IMHO. Cheap returners are Locking rear diff, Basic Tow and These steps.

 

[Freedom Beast]

Here is my painful situation. Yes, some of it my fault, but I blame Ford mostly for this. I purchased a 2024 Ranger XLT FX4. Didn't notice till last minute that it had no hitch. I told the salesman that I want a FREE hitch as part of the deal. He came back from his manager and said no problem. Of course the part would have to be ordered. I understood this.

After the new ride's arrival at home, I started looking for upgrades, hence this site. I found a thread on the Load Box Reinforcement kit (J brace). I immediately emailed my dealer about this and they were kind enough to order a kit without cost and install for free (still waiting for install).

Time went by and I finally got a call that my hitch and J brace kit had arrived. Got a time setup and I was excited. Then I get another call, "Sir we have the parts but we can't install the hitch because........", ready for this, "Ford doesn't make the 7 pin wiring harness yet. Also, we have to order a whole new rear bumper black panel fascia." I was perplexed as there were Rangers on the lot with hitches. The dealer said those only come from factory that way. They don't make the part for your addition after the fact.

I can't begin to tell you how mad I was (still am). I did some research online at dealers and found a truck like mine that already had the hitch installed. I told the dealer let's just do a swap since you said I could get a hitch but obviously I can't. The dealer said they would have to go to Ford and see what they could do. Weeks went by. Numerous emails were sent. VLAs (vehicle listing ads) were flying around. Finally, an email came - Denied. However, I could get Customer Loyalty Cash to put towards a new one of my choice. Still have to pay TTL on the new one and blah, blah, blah. Plus, my truck would have to be appraised (lower value of course). This ticked me off even more as I was supposed to have a hitch in the beginning.

The battle continues and the main reason I'm posting this is MAKE SURE YOU HAVE EVERY OPTION YOU WANT FIRST FROM THE FACTORY. Don't trust Ford to have the parts for these trucks yet. My dealer has been very helpful through this situation. The only fault from them is telling me I can have something when I clearly can't. However, I mostly blame Ford as they should tell dealers what's possible and what's not. Ford should also have parts pre-release for situations like this.

I'm sure I'll get dinged both good and bad on this topic. I don't care. Bottom line - they said they could do it, but they can't. Yes, there are probably aftermarket parts out there but that's NOT the point.

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