Carbon buildup after 34,000 miles with single valve catch can (scope view)

[superj]

You guys want to see carbon build up, check out Hyundai, Kia, and Nissan di engines.

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[Lion77]

That is interesting and i think i am going to invest in a walnut blaster as well just because i have 3 vehicles that are all direct injection and the cost of 3 intake cleaning services is going to be 900 bucks if i go the BG Platinum route and a walnut blaster on the cheap end is only 300-400 and a relatively decent one is in the 800-1000 dollar range. i will also have to upgrade my compressor as i only have a basic pancake compressor for small air tools. Overall i think it will be a good thing to have on hand for this very reason. That said, i am still going to go thru with the two follow up videos. How involved was taking hte intake off? there is no coolant running t hrough it from what i have seen and read so it shoudl be pretty simple with regards to moving some wires, disconnecting some sensors and pulling it off, did you replace the gasket / seal or just reuse it?

Cheers,
Kyle

That's about in-line with what I see other DI high-performance engines do. 75k to 100k walnut intervals, it's a pretty decent span and honestly, other people I know with higher mileage 3.0L's have not noticed any drivability issues before or after, it was more so to prevent that from occurring down the road if you let it go to 150k without a service.

My wife's 2018 CX-9 has 125k, that was a DI turbo engine, and it drove just as good as when we got it at 125k, it has no hesitation, power was strong and consistent. Never had any induction cleaning done but I'm sure there was some buildup on the intake valves at that mileage.

I plan on doing it at 100k on my Raptor unless I experience any symptoms before, but you have to have a LOT of carbon buildup to affect airflow to a meaningful degree. Now the truck in the video sees a lot of trail work, that is the WORST scenario for a high-performance DI engine, it's a lot of low speed / high heat use, especially with 600lbs of crap in the bed 24/7. Trail work is a carbon fouling issue for any engine, including dual injection 2.3L's and 2.7L's, they are just less prone to it than DI.

My friend has a 21' Exp ST that just had intake valves cleaned at 120k, he had no noticeable drivability issues before hand and did it as preventative maintenance. So, I'd say 100k for most people is fine, that's maybe two-three times in the service life the vehicle at most.

 

[rocsteady]

Part 2 is up on YouTube after he had the service

 

[NickyFlippers]

Could a Seafoam treatment every other oil change help mitigate this?

 

[KayaPayaPigDog]

Could a Seafoam treatment every other oil change help mitigate this?

i think that might be worth giving a shot. i have never acutally used seafoam as an intake treatment but have watched a few youtube videos about it. My only concern is how much of the solution is getting introduced in a given amount of time. if it is too much, it could cause the engine to stall and then if you dont get the can taken out quick enough you could introdeuce enough fluid to hydrolock something. not sure how accurate that is, but something to think about.

 

[superj]

It would be very hard to hyrolock the engine with a can of seafoam

I used to stick the hose in the intake and hold the rpms at 3k to clear carbon in the combustion chambers and I have also tried seafoam. It smokes like a mosquito truck but didn't seem to work better than the hose. The hose is an old school trick my dad told me they used to do in the 70s

I may even still have a YouTube video on doing it. Let me check

 

[superj]

I still have it. This is a 98 jeep Cherokee 4.0 and the garage hose.

 

[AlloyPony]

Why doesn't the 3.0 run the port injection like the other two engines?

 

[Sharpie223]

Why doesn't the 3.0 run the port injection like the other two engines?

I've often wondered this since it was based off the 2.7.


As for seafoam, they make an aerosol can with a special straw that you place in the intake. You're supposed to hold rpms about 2k, but at the rate it sprays, it wouldn't be an issue. You could also use an undersized tube with the typical seafoam can to be sure it doesn't suck too much.

I've also used a syringe to spray water into the intake for cleaning.(Through a narrow straw as a nozzle), (Not in my current vehicle) The airflow causes atomization, and the cold droplets impacting and vaporizing on the hot carbon buildup cause it to disintegrate. The syringe greatly limits the rate of water introduction.

 

[Bill W]

Thank you for the borescope pictures. Agree with you that flow restriction is minimal. No matter how you clean the valves, or catch can exc. it is a fact that every 2.3 or 2.7 eco boost intake valve will look that way. A lot better than when the eco boost was just DFI. Clean it up, it will come back. To a point there is where the magic of MAF and O2 sensors and the turbo takes over via ECU to bring it in line.

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