So What Engine Oil Are Y'all Running/Planning on Running?

[smokinjoe64]

Mobil 1 w/ OE filter...plain & simple

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[telenerd]

I use Valvoline Extended Protection Full Synthetic 5w30 and it meets the Ford Specs according to the manual. Plus can be found at Walmart for a good price. I change every 5k during winter months. If I am doing a lot of off-roading I change every 3k during summer. Might be a little too frequent but oil is fairly cheap and the Raptor is very easy to do myself.

I do notice the engine runs smoother than the stock Motorcraft oil. Especially on startup.

 

[MulchBags2]

Motorcraft full synthetic for me with factory filter. First change was at 1.8k. About 5k on this change, plan to go 7k and do a UOA to adjust from there.

Also fully treated the entire powertrain with DLC films at 5k.

https://www.ranger6g.com/forum/thre...-and-transmission-gearbox-applications.16672/

Back to the oil, I've found that MC FS does well on UOAs in Fords compared to a lot of other oils and it's their own oil....so it's well tested for its application and the particular needs of the Ecoboost engines.

Also MC synthetic 5w30 has been GF-6 certified for some time now. Not all the aftermarket oils are, so it's one less thing to worry about.

Buy it from RockAuto for a bit over $5 a quart. Dealer is a rip off and charges 3x that.

what is UOA?

 

[SolarWinds]

I used Motorcraft full synthetic on my break-in oil change (with OE filter), but will switch to Mobil 1 5w-30 full synthetic for subsequent changes. Will stick with OE oil filters, but will also swap the drain plug for one with a magnet (Ronin)

 

[josephp732]

what is UOA?

UOA = "Used Oil Analysis" VOA = "Virgin Oil Analysis" - typically you purchase and oil
Analysis kit from a company like Blackstone. https://www.blackstone-labs.com/

 

[josephp732]

At 500 miles I dumped the factory fill, changed the filter and went with Red Line Euro-Series 5W30. I have the 2.7l EB. I purchased a Ronin oil drain plug and an UPR Products oil drain plug. I found the UPR plug to be a better design. I like that it has two gaskets going into the oil pan and that it has a ball drain valve, like a Fumoto drain plug. With the Ronin drain plug you need the screw-in piece to open up the valve. Both are very well built and have magnetic tips.

https://www.uprproducts.com/upr-ford-qt-oil-drain-valve-for-mustang-f150-raptor-edge-explorer-bronco/?searchid=267368&search_query=3025-03

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H56TP4F?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1

 

[purdyd]

I always liked Pennzoil for years but I almost positive it does not meet Fords WSS-M2C961-A1 specification. Wouldn't want to give Ford an excuse for using oil that doesn't meet spec. However, haven't looked in quite a while, they may have updated to meet that spec now.

 

[gtistiffler]

Havoline Synthetic Blend and motorcraft filter. 6qt box is $23 At Walmart and meets ford spec.

 

[AMGRAPTOR]

I went with pennzoil ultra platinum. it meets the FORD spec and was 26 bucks at walmart for 5 quarts.

 

[BriSco]

I just changed oil yesterday. Kirkland 5w-30 synthetic and a Motorcraft filter.
Last two changes were SuperTech 5w-30 and Motorcraft filters.
First change was Motorcraft oil and filter.

 

[Lion77]

I think the biggest factor is a GF-6 spec. Full Synthetic. Not a huge difference between brands in terms of additives for GF-6 spec oils, the biggest difference is the base oil stock and higher quality base oil is going to have better cold flow and less sludge buildup over time which causes increased heating and by far the worst impact is gumming up critical interfaces like the piston rings (which need to float in the grooves, stuck rings = starting point of demise) or hydraulic tensioners in timing chains.

Valvoline's synthetic blend vs. full synthetic test they did (search for it on youtube) really shows the benefits of FS oils. I just use MC FS for warranty and because....it should be optimized for EB engines given that nearly all their passenger car and light / medium duty engines are now turbo-charged, I'm not interested in trying a bunch of different oils and doing UOA's at this point in time to see which one "works best". OE is usually pretty safe bet for regular maintenance.

 

[bowhun2r]

Did my first 1k oil change and swapped in the Ronin adapter. This is my second RR so I'm pretty familiar with procedure, but this time i took pics of some of the steps using Pella 6k extractor.

We are all very familiar with removing the OEM plug and having a gusher of oil come out. The Ronin will fix that... but for the first oil change I used my beloved Pella 6k oil extractor that has been in my garage for over 2 decades performing oil extractions on many different vehicles and small engines. Love this thing. I have to dump it twice in order to get nearly all the oil out. My truck was on ramps as well.

After using the extractor when I did remove the OEM plug a little less than an 1 oz. dribbled out. I was prepared with foil around the cross member to ensure it would not get soaked.... hardly needed it. I've read posts where people were asking about oil extraction on our engine and what was left in the pan after you start sucking air. Honestly... I could use just the extractor on future changes because of little was remaining in the pan.


First extraction. I have a larger container I use to dump and transport my oil to a facility that takes used oil. For real, this pump is over 20 years old and continues to work flawlessly.

Preparing to remove the OEM plug..

I have a smaller plastic container I use to catch whatever is left in the pan after I extract the oil.

Hard to tell, but that's less than 1 oz. remaining in the pan after extraction.

All set for next change. This will be faster than extracting as I'll have a tube going right into my larger plastic container I use for disposal.

I've had many 4Runners and Tacomas and it was a must for anti-seize on the skid plate bolts for changing the oil. Keeping up the practice.

My choice for oil and filter

Little tip... put a hole in the top of the 4 gallon jug of oil to make pouring a lot easier.

 

[josephp732]

For me, Redline Euro-Series 5W30 and an Amsoil filter with the UPR drain plug.
https://www.redlineoil.com/euro-series-5w30-motor-oil

https://www.uprproducts.com/product...-for-mustang-f150-raptor-edge-explorer-bronco

I tried the Ronin drain plug, but switched the UPR plug. I like that the UPR plug is a single piece with a ball valve compared to the Ronin plug which is a two piece design - where you need to screw in the second piece to open up the valve for draining.

 

[bowhun2r]

I just checked out the UPR valve. Nice! Wish I would have saw that before.

For me, Redline Euro-Series 5W30 and an Amsoil filter with the UPR drain plug.
https://www.redlineoil.com/euro-series-5w30-motor-oil

https://www.uprproducts.com/product...-for-mustang-f150-raptor-edge-explorer-bronco

I tried the Ronin drain plug, but switched the UPR plug. I like that the UPR plug is a single piece with a ball valve compared to the Ronin plug which is a two piece design - where you need to screw in the second piece to open up the valve for draining.

Nice! Did not know about the UPR plug. Might switch to that after a few changes. I like the one piece design. Thanks for posting that.

 

[Doubleajaybrock]

Amsoil Signature

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