wires for trailer brake controller '24 Ranger?

[Jason B]

Hi All!

I'm new to the forum and this my first post! I might be a little early posting this but I'm eager to share my experience of installing a receiver and brake controller on a 2024 Ranger XLT without the tow package. This thread has been a huge asset in the process so thank you EVERYONE in advance for your research to this point.

I'm basically duplicating what chino101 did in his Ranger. I'm still in the process of connecting and testing everything so I don't have much to report yet. Once I confirm my installation is a success (or a failure), I'll report back with details of the install and equipment. I should have this done by the weekend (by 1/26/2025).

Until then, I can share this:

• The window sticker for my Ranger does not indicate a "tow-package" was included. The truck did not come with a receiver. That said, I do have a 4-pin connector tucked behind the rear bumper.
• My "non-tow-package" Ranger has the under-dash connector as explained chino101 and others.
• The brake controller and harness I purchased connected to the under-dash connector without an issue.
• With no trailer connected, pressing the manual override brake button on controller activated all brake lights. (That's a small win my opinion!)

I still need to review how to correctly test the voltage on each wire at the 7-pin on the back of the truck. Also need to figure out how to test the Automatic Emergency Braking (AEB) function without actually running into a wall.

So with that, thanks for everything ladies and gentlemen!

~HWMTB

PS -Does the forum allow a contributor (me) to tag individual members? For example, Jason B might be interested in my install since it seems he also does not have the tow package.

Oh, I'm definitely watching this thread and appreciate the hard work.
1st question: How did you manage to connect a 7 pin? Did you buy the aftermarket harness or were able to use what Ford had installed? Is there an adapter for the harness at the bumper?

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[jedadiah]

On the 5G Rangers without the tow package, you used a wring harness like this to add the 7/4pin to the back. I installed this harness and a Redarc on my 5G and it worked fine. I doubt the 6G is too different. The 4 way under the bumper also retained its functionality, which was cool.

edit: eTrailer says that Curt is working on a harness for the '24.

 

[RangerDangerStranger]

Hi All!

I'm new to the forum and this my first post! I might be a little early posting this but I'm eager to share my experience of installing a receiver and brake controller on a 2024 Ranger XLT without the tow package. This thread has been a huge asset in the process so thank you EVERYONE in advance for your research to this point.

I'm basically duplicating what chino101 did in his Ranger. I'm still in the process of connecting and testing everything so I don't have much to report yet. Once I confirm my installation is a success (or a failure), I'll report back with details of the install and equipment. I should have this done by the weekend (by 1/26/2025).

Until then, I can share this:

• The window sticker for my Ranger does not indicate a "tow-package" was included. The truck did not come with a receiver. That said, I do have a 4-pin connector tucked behind the rear bumper.
• My "non-tow-package" Ranger has the under-dash connector as explained chino101 and others.
• The brake controller and harness I purchased connected to the under-dash connector without an issue.
• With no trailer connected, pressing the manual override brake button on controller activated all brake lights. (That's a small win my opinion!)

I still need to review how to correctly test the voltage on each wire at the 7-pin on the back of the truck. Also need to figure out how to test the Automatic Emergency Braking (AEB) function without actually running into a wall.

So with that, thanks for everything ladies and gentlemen!

~HWMTB

PS -Does the forum allow a contributor (me) to tag individual members? For example, Jason B might be interested in my install since it seems he also does not have the tow package.

If you look back on page 6, I tested the BOO- Brake On/Off AKA BPP that HootBro provided a schematic for. This is the only real pin in question. BOO/BPP tells the TBC to be active when it's on. We determined that it's not a simple tap into the brake switch, it's derived from the BCM- which is good, because it can then go high during AEB, when you don't brake. The LED light is hooked to this pin in the connector in both videos, Showing it going high when brakes are applied and DURING AEB, using the reverse AEB function, backing into a bush. It goes high w/o my foot touching the brake, So AEB is funtional on that pin during AEB, in reverse, and so very likely in forward as well. As far as testing 7 pin function- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BVZYBRGM.

Also:
BTW: I do not reccomend you use this information to install a controler. If you do so, you do so at your own risk entirely. Doing so may result in your death. Please be aware of this.

 

[Highspeedplay]

Just some info on another option. I just got the Curt 51180 echo mobile brake controller.
Pretty cool little unit and uses Bluetooth as well. can be set up for up to 5 trailer options.
I have not ran it thru its paces but there is a lot of info and reviews out there for any one who
doesn't want to mess with the wiring option.

https://www.amazon.com/CURT-51180-C...ocphy=9027121&hvtargid=pla-584363310600&psc=1

 

[HWMTB]

Oh, I'm definitely watching this thread and appreciate the hard work.
1st question: How did you manage to connect a 7 pin? Did you buy the aftermarket harness or were able to use what Ford had installed? Is there an adapter for the harness at the bumper?

Hey Jason,

I had a shop do the receiver install and harness wiring. To be honest, I'm not sure what they did but after the work was complete but I now have a 7- and 4-pin connector at the back of the truck. Hopefully its connected to something and not just for show! LOL I'll report back over the weekend to confirm the setup. Exciting stuff!

 

[HWMTB]

Just some info on another option. I just got the Curt 51180 echo mobile brake controller.
Pretty cool little unit and uses Bluetooth as well. can be set up for up to 5 trailer options.
I have not ran it thru its paces but there is a lot of info and reviews out there for any one who
doesn't want to mess with the wiring option.

Yes, thanks for sharing that link. I saw this option and considered it but I really don't want to rely on an app or Bluetooth connections, especially for the manual override feature. I know they have the wireless override button "add-on" but I much prefer the hardwire option.

 

[HWMTB]

If you look back on page 6, I tested the BOO- Brake On/Off AKA BPP that HootBro provided a schematic for. This is the only real pin in question. BOO/BPP tells the TBC to be active when it's on. We determined that it's not a simple tap into the brake switch, it's derived from the BCM- which is good, because it can then go high during AEB, when you don't brake. The LED light is hooked to this pin in the connector in both videos, Showing it going high when brakes are applied and DURING AEB, using the reverse AEB function, backing into a bush. It goes high w/o my foot touching the brake, So AEB is funtional on that pin during AEB, in reverse, and so very likely in forward as well. As far as testing 7 pin function- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BVZYBRGM.

Also:
BTW: I do not reccomend you use this information to install a controler. If you do so, you do so at your own risk entirely. Doing so may result in your death. Please be aware of this.

Oh right! I do recall your testing was very thorough and I remember the bush comment now that you mention it! LOL. And I think I'm going to start adding a disclaimer to my posts as well. Not a bad idea. All this stuff is dangerous and I'm certainly NOT a mechanic or electrician.

 

[Jason B]

Hey Jason,

I had a shop do the receiver install and harness wiring. To be honest, I'm not sure what they did but after the work was complete but I now have a 7- and 4-pin connector at the back of the truck. Hopefully its connected to something and not just for show! LOL I'll report back over the weekend to confirm the setup. Exciting stuff!

If the 7-pin is fully hooked up (not just lighting) you should have 12v power on one of those pins, as well as a brake activation signal with all lighting.

 

[HWMTB]

OK, I have an update regarding my TBC install on a 2024 Ranger XLT without a tow package. I feel like I'm 90% of the way there. Spoiler alert: I'm still unsure if the install was success. This might be due to my own ignorance. Let me try to explain. Sorry, this is long post too...

Like others, I'll add a disclaimer: I DO NOT recommend you use this information to modify your vehicle in any way. You could be injured or die and/or damage your vehicle. If you do try a TBC install on your own, you do so at your own risk! You've been warned.

Here is my installation as it stands:

• No Tow Package: The window sticker for my 2024 Ranger XLT has no indication of a "tow-package." That said, there is a 4-pin connector at the bumper AND I do have the "port" in the cabin on the left side of the footwell (near brake module).
  
  
• Receiver & 7-pin Connector: I had a receiver and 7-pin connector installed by a professional custom shop. Unfortunately, I can't confirm what harnesses/connectors they used to complete the conversion. It's not listed on the invoice and the install is really clean and secured with cable ties.
  
  
• Redarc Liberty TBC and harness: I used a Redarc TPH-007 harness which connected to the "port" under the dashboard.
  
  
• Testing the Install: I used a CURT 7-pin tester (Part #58272 ) to confirm light functions. At the bumper, I have a constant 12-volt indicator and brake pedal input activates the correct LED on the tester. Similarly, pressing the manual override button on the Redarc illuminated the correct LED for the trailer brake control signal on the Curt tester. Sounds promising, right? Read on...

This is where I'm stuck. I worry my Redarc is NOT getting a brake light signal through the harness/port behind the dashboard. My own logic tells me that when the brake pedal is pressed, two lights on the Curt tester should illuminate: one for the brake pedal input and one for the TBC signal to activate electric brakes. Is that correct?

I know that @chino101 used an incandescent lamp and explained the controller needs to "sense a [voltage] load" to work correctly. I'm not comparing apples to apples so maybe it is working but because of the Curt tester (as opposed to an actual trailer lamp) I'm getting a negative result. Perhaps @chino101 or @Hootbro can offer insight?

Now, this might also be my own fault for not fully understanding how a brake controller works. Also complicating the testing is the absence of an actual trailer. Here is what I do know based on the Redarc manual:

• Redarc knob LEDs: LEDs are "dormant" UNLESS a trailer is connected to the 7-pin.
  
  
• Calibration Period: With my Curt tester connected, the Redarc comes to life with the Green/Blue LED (on the Redarc knob) indicating calibration. The LED should go solid blue after calibration but I have yet to see that. During the calibration period, the controller should apply trailer brakes based on the setting set on the knob.
  
  
• Normal Brake Application: the Redarc knob should glow red. Does it glow red ONLY after calibration? Or, would it glow red while still in "calibration period?

Lastly, I want to give a shout out to @RangerDangerStranger for all the testing and research put into this thread. Big thank you! I must admit, I'm not sure I fully understand the wire diagrams but I did re-read this thread carefully, twice.

Also, thank you @chino101 and @TractorFixer for the picture of your Redarc installation. I successfully matched what y'all did and I'm pleased with the super-clean install.

And if you actually read this whole post, I appreciate you! LOL

 

[chino101]

• Testing the Install: I used a CURT 7-pin tester (Part #58272 ) to confirm light functions. At the bumper, I have a constant 12-volt indicator and brake pedal input activates the correct LED on the tester. Similarly, pressing the manual override button on the Redarc illuminated the correct LED for the trailer brake control signal on the Curt tester. Sounds promising, right? Read on...

This is where I'm stuck. I worry my Redarc is NOT getting a brake light signal through the harness/port behind the dashboard. My own logic tells me that when the brake pedal is pressed, two lights on the Curt tester should illuminate: one for the brake pedal input and one for the TBC signal to activate electric brakes. Is that correct?

I know that @chino101 used an incandescent lamp and explained the controller needs to "sense a [voltage] load" to work correctly. I'm not comparing apples to apples so maybe it is working but because of the Curt tester (as opposed to an actual trailer lamp) I'm getting a negative result. Perhaps @chino101 or @Hootbro can offer insight?

Now, this might also be my own fault for not fully understanding how a brake controller works. Also complicating the testing is the absence of an actual trailer. Here is what I do know based on the Redarc manual:

• Redarc knob LEDs: LEDs are "dormant" UNLESS a trailer is connected to the 7-pin.
  
  
• Calibration Period: With my Curt tester connected, the Redarc comes to life with the Green/Blue LED (on the Redarc knob) indicating calibration. The LED should go solid blue after calibration but I have yet to see that. During the calibration period, the controller should apply trailer brakes based on the setting set on the knob.
  
  
• Normal Brake Application: the Redarc knob should glow red. Does it glow red ONLY after calibration? Or, would it glow red while still in "calibration period?

Lastly, I want to give a shout out to @RangerDangerStranger for all the testing and research put into this thread. Big thank you! I must admit, I'm not sure I fully understand the wire diagrams but I did re-read this thread carefully, twice.

Also, thank you @chino101 and @TractorFixer for the picture of your Redarc installation. I successfully matched what y'all did and I'm pleased with the super-clean install.

And if you actually read this whole post, I appreciate you! LOL

I think you are very close. Getting the Green/Blue alternating LED means the controller senses a trailer; I also got this indication when I connected the light bulb to the trailer brake pin on the socket. I replicated the instructions in this video from REDARC using a 12v light bulb.

I used the incandescent light bulb because it offers a variable brightness in relation to the controller dial setting, which a LED in the Curt Tester might not.

 

[HWMTB]

I think you are very close. Getting the Green/Blue alternating LED means the controller senses a trailer; I also got this indication when I connected the light bulb to the trailer brake pin on the socket. I replicated the instructions in this video from REDARC using a 12v light bulb.

You're a rockstar! Thanks for the quick response. Of course I went right to truck to try the steps in the video. LOL

Unfortunately, I didn't have luck switching the Redarc to "User Controlled" mode as suggested in the video. The video is specific to the Redarc Tow-Pro Elite model. I have the Liberty model which only has the "Proportional" mode. I saw the Elite model but thought it was it was "over kill" for my needs. I should have researched this more thoroughly.

Something else I noticed: The 12-volt power coming from the Ford brake controller box/port is (I think) interrupted at some point when the truck is off. The Redarc appears to go though calibration every time the truck is turned on. This may indicate why I'm not seeing a blue light when I connect my tester? I think I need to find a new 12-volt power source. Or maybe upgrade to the Elite to take advantage of "User Controlled" mode?

EDIT. - Here is something annoying... The Redarc Liberty uses a CAT5 cable to connect the control knob to the controller. I thought, "I'll just upgrade the controller!" Nope, you can't! If you want to upgrade to the Elite, you'll have to replace the knob as well! It uses a different interface cable. This means tearing apart the dash board again! Oofa!

 

[chino101]

Unfortunately, I didn't have luck switching the Redarc to "User Controlled" mode as suggested in the video. The video is specific to the Redarc Tow-Pro Elite model. I have the Liberty model which only has the "Proportional" mode. I saw the Elite model but thought it was it was "over kill" for my needs. I should have researched this more thoroughly.

I too have the Liberty model, and upon first instalation the LED on the knob was flashing blue-green. I was able to use the test procedure outlined in the video, to verify function, and change the brightness of the bulb by turning the knob, and then applying the brakes. I think the video does mention that if the LED is green or flashing blue-green, the test procedure will work. Also, I was able push the brake controller knob to light up the test light/bulb as well.

 

[Jason B]

OK, I have an update regarding my TBC install on a 2024 Ranger XLT without a tow package. I feel like I'm 90% of the way there. Spoiler alert: I'm still unsure if the install was success. This might be due to my own ignorance. Let me try to explain. Sorry, this is long post too...

Like others, I'll add a disclaimer: I DO NOT recommend you use this information to modify your vehicle in any way. You could be injured or die and/or damage your vehicle. If you do try a TBC install on your own, you do so at your own risk! You've been warned.

Here is my installation as it stands:

• No Tow Package: The window sticker for my 2024 Ranger XLT has no indication of a "tow-package." That said, there is a 4-pin connector at the bumper AND I do have the "port" in the cabin on the left side of the footwell (near brake module).
  
  
• Receiver & 7-pin Connector: I had a receiver and 7-pin connector installed by a professional custom shop. Unfortunately, I can't confirm what harnesses/connectors they used to complete the conversion. It's not listed on the invoice and the install is really clean and secured with cable ties.
  
  
• Redarc Liberty TBC and harness: I used a Redarc TPH-007 harness which connected to the "port" under the dashboard.
  
  
• Testing the Install: I used a CURT 7-pin tester (Part #58272 ) to confirm light functions. At the bumper, I have a constant 12-volt indicator and brake pedal input activates the correct LED on the tester. Similarly, pressing the manual override button on the Redarc illuminated the correct LED for the trailer brake control signal on the Curt tester. Sounds promising, right? Read on...

This is where I'm stuck. I worry my Redarc is NOT getting a brake light signal through the harness/port behind the dashboard. My own logic tells me that when the brake pedal is pressed, two lights on the Curt tester should illuminate: one for the brake pedal input and one for the TBC signal to activate electric brakes. Is that correct?

I know that @chino101 used an incandescent lamp and explained the controller needs to "sense a [voltage] load" to work correctly. I'm not comparing apples to apples so maybe it is working but because of the Curt tester (as opposed to an actual trailer lamp) I'm getting a negative result. Perhaps @chino101 or @Hootbro can offer insight?

Now, this might also be my own fault for not fully understanding how a brake controller works. Also complicating the testing is the absence of an actual trailer. Here is what I do know based on the Redarc manual:

• Redarc knob LEDs: LEDs are "dormant" UNLESS a trailer is connected to the 7-pin.
  
  
• Calibration Period: With my Curt tester connected, the Redarc comes to life with the Green/Blue LED (on the Redarc knob) indicating calibration. The LED should go solid blue after calibration but I have yet to see that. During the calibration period, the controller should apply trailer brakes based on the setting set on the knob.
  
  
• Normal Brake Application: the Redarc knob should glow red. Does it glow red ONLY after calibration? Or, would it glow red while still in "calibration period?

Lastly, I want to give a shout out to @RangerDangerStranger for all the testing and research put into this thread. Big thank you! I must admit, I'm not sure I fully understand the wire diagrams but I did re-read this thread carefully, twice.

Also, thank you @chino101 and @TractorFixer for the picture of your Redarc installation. I successfully matched what y'all did and I'm pleased with the super-clean install.

And if you actually read this whole post, I appreciate you! LOL

Good news. progress is being made.
The constant 12v on black is encouraging.
Looking at the diagram of the 7-pin I posted:
From my understanding, when you push the brake, you should get THREE lights on the tester:
Right brake light (brown wire)
Left brake light (red wire)
TBC output (blue wire)

You should also have lights on either brown or red when you use the turn signal, depending which way you turn it. Many vehicles use an interrupted brake light for a turn signal, meaning it's a common wire and bulb for the bake lamp and signal lamp on each side.

Just curious, did the truck display indicate that a trailer is connected? I'm not sure that it is supposed to, or not.

Did you take a look under the bumper? Did the installer actually add a harness with connectors, or did he splice into wires?

Thanks for all the hard work.

 

[chino101]

Just curious, did the truck display indicate that a trailer is connected? I'm not sure that it is supposed to, or not.

If I recalled correctly, it did when I connected the test light bulb to the brake output pin in the 7-pin socket. When I attached a volt meter to the same brake output pins I received an error message.

 

[HWMTB]

If I recalled correctly, it did when I connected the test light bulb to the brake output pin in the 7-pin socket. When I attached a volt meter to the same brake output pins I received an error message.

Yes, the truck did recognize a trailer after connecting the tester. I thought that was pretty cool, at first. However, that's a whole other issue (possibly a new thread?) that I was going to post.

Seems if you set up the trailer profile with weight, length, height and so forth, the truck will nag you about being over weight, even with no actual trailer hooked up!!! The screen shows "Weight Limit" with an audible "ding ding" about every minute or so. Remember, I don't "officially" have a tow package so maybe the computer needs to be reconfigured to stop the nagging?

If you use the "Default trailer" option, the weight limit warning doesn't happen. The default trailer isn't configured with all the trailer variables and the truck seems happy. I hope the weight nag isn't the Redarc /harness messing with other components.

In either case, Ford BLIS features (at least some of them) are unavailable. The truck explicitly says Rear cross traffic warnings are disabled; no need for these warnings if your towing. Once I pick up my actual travel trailer, I totally expect BLIS blind spot warnings to stop working also.

Once I get the TBC concerns worked out, I'll deal with the computer issues.

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