wires for trailer brake controller '24 Ranger?

[Hootbro]

was a guy in this thread who was looking at adding a TBC to his Ranger without the basic tow kit. I believe he found the connector, but the brake signal from the BCM wasn't active in it, and there was no way to practically activate it from what I remember.

Yeah, it was "A Bridge Too Far" situation IIRC.

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[goober71]

Ok, I ordered the Redarc TBC from etrailer after reading the detailed instructions in this thread. Thanks for all the extensive research and the pictures! Will install it once I get it.
Planning to purchase a camper eventually (around 5000lbs) so I'm hoping I can get it to work.

G

 

[goober71]

I received the Redarc Liberty TBC a couple of days back and installed it today. The instructions and pics were very helpful!
Couple of questions:

1. Where did you route the wire from the TBC to the factory plug? I just tucked it under the top edge of the carpet in the driver wheel well.
2. I coiled and zip tied the wire from the TBC to the knob and tucked it behind the knob. Assuming that will work?
3. How do you test that it works as expected without connecting a trailer with brakes (don't have a camper yet, planning to get one eventually)? The blue light comes on for a couple of secs when I press the button on the knob, so it's getting power. Is there a tester available that can test functionality?

Thanks for all the help!

G

 

[goober71]

Ok, more advice needed.
I ordered a tester to test and confirm that the installation is working as expected. However, I do not see the brake controller light go on with the tester. All other lights (12v, ignition, LT/Brk, RT/Brk, backup) function as expected. When I first connect the tester, before I insert the key in the ignition, the BK controller light flickers on/off weakly. Once I insert the key, it stops flickering.
I see the blue light on the controller knob when I push the button on it. So it is getting power for sure.

Any ideas? Have any of you tested to confirm you are getting the brake controller signal at the 7 pin plug?

Please let me know.
Thanks.

G

 

[Jason B]

Someone said that those testers don't work well on our vehicles. There's not enough load on the circuits so that the ECU detects that a trailer is connected, thus doesn't activate the trailer functions properly. But you can verify if that's correct. Did the vehicle indicate 'Trailer Connected" when you inserted the tester?

 

[goober71]

Someone said that those testers don't work well on our vehicles. There's not enough load on the circuits so that the ECU detects that a trailer is connected, thus doesn't activate the trailer functions properly. But you can verify if that's correct. Did the vehicle indicate 'Trailer Connected" when you inserted the tester?

Thanks for this. I drove around with the tester connected to the 7 pin plug, but the truck still says “no trailer detected”. So what you’re saying makes sense.
Has anyone tested this setup with a trailer with brakes connected to make sure the controller works?
Thanks.

G

 

[craigc]

Thanks for this. I drove around with the tester connected to the 7 pin plug, but the truck still says “no trailer detected”. So what you’re saying makes sense.
Has anyone tested this setup with a trailer with brakes connected to make sure the controller works?
Thanks.

G

The redarc controller (round knob) worked for me. I did not try a plug in tester, just tried with an actual trailer that has electric brakes and it works as expected. Still haven't mounted the knob though, just have it tucked in under the steering wheel and I pull it out when towing, which isn't very often.

 

[goober71]

The redarc controller (round knob) worked for me. I did not try a plug in tester, just tried with an actual trailer that has electric brakes and it works as expected. Still haven't mounted the knob though, just have it tucked in under the steering wheel and I pull it out when towing, which isn't very often.

Thanks! Without the trailer connected, do you only see the blue light pulse and turn off when you push down the dial knob? That’s what I’m seeing.
Next step is to find a trailer to test with, I guess! ?

G

 

[craigc]

Thanks! Without the trailer connected, do you only see the blue light pulse and turn off when you push down the dial knob? That’s what I’m seeing.
Next step is to find a trailer to test with, I guess! ?

G

I don't think I see any light without the trailer connected unless pushing on the knob. I don't recall any pulsing. Since I have it tucked down behind the steering column panel I don't really look at it though. With a trailer the light is on steady if I remember correctly. It's pretty bright (too bright IMO)

 

[goober71]

I don't think I see any light without the trailer connected unless pushing on the knob. I don't recall any pulsing. Since I have it tucked down behind the steering column panel I don't really look at it though. With a trailer the light is on steady if I remember correctly. It's pretty bright (too bright IMO)

Yes, that’s right, the blue light pulses once and goes away when I push on the knob. Otherwise there’s no light.
I’ll try to find a trailer to test with soon.
Thanks.

G

 

[TractorFixer]

Yes, that’s right, the blue light pulses once and goes away when I push on the knob. Otherwise there’s no light.
I’ll try to find a trailer to test with soon.
Thanks.

G

That's how mine works. If I recall correctly, I think it turns purple when a trailer is connected.

 

[chino101]

Yes, that’s right, the blue light pulses once and goes away when I push on the knob. Otherwise there’s no light.
I’ll try to find a trailer to test with soon.
Thanks.

G

You can use the procedure shown in this video to test the brake controller. I didn't have a test light so I used a automotive brake light bulb, and it served the same function.

 

[pezdyspensr]

Did you end up taking action on your no-tow package truck? I have this same configuration (hasty purchase) and was hoping to wait for either a Ford or Curt plug-n-play that provides a 4/7 to that bumper cutout. I don't like that the current Curt solution is a hitch mount 7-pin only and requires borrowing wires from the 4-pin or splicing, and I cannot tell if it can plug straight into an OEM 4/7?

I peeked under the bumper yesterday. There is a connector with all wires for the 7-pin. Currently, the output connector has only the wires for the 4-pin coming out of it, white, brown. green, and yellow. Those 4 wires are wrapped up in the harness that feeds the plate lights and reverse sensors in the bumper. Probably no luck from Ford to provide just the trailer wire harness, as it's part of another assembly.
There is also a cutout in the bumper bracket that looks like it would hold a 7-pin.
I think Curt is working on a 7-pin harness that will connect into that connector.

 

[pezdyspensr]

Is there anything stopping us from getting one of these and self-installing? I can't find the part on the major supply sites but found a few used. If the no-tow package units still have 7-pin wiring, does that mean the TRM module could plug-n-play? Other than harness compatibility, there is the question if you can even flash the unit once installed, or if it will fail to be recognized by its parent module? Haven't found any examples on here yet of someone taking this step. If not, I may take the leap to test but may need some insight from the hive mind on the flashing process, if even possible without a dealer.

This should be the factory trailer brake module needed. It appearsyou with need 2 small harnesses, the controller and the bezel for the factory look and operation.

 

[Jason B]

Did you end up taking action on your no-tow package truck? I have this same configuration (hasty purchase) and was hoping to wait for either a Ford or Curt plug-n-play that provides a 4/7 to that bumper cutout. I don't like that the current Curt solution is a hitch mount 7-pin only and requires borrowing wires from the 4-pin or splicing, and I cannot tell if it can plug straight into an OEM 4/7?

The only thing I did was install a Draw-tite receiver I bought from Amazon.
I haven't added the 7 -pin. I was waiting to see if Curt, Ford or any other manufacturer would offer a 4/7 harness that plugs into the existing bumper harness. All the wires for the 4/7 pin are there, at least on my truck. I just don't understand why Curt doesn't have all the wire on their harness or why adding the 7-pin means losing the 4-pin. As it stands, with Curt, you have to run wires to the cab for the trailer brakes, reverse lights and 12V power.
After a plug and play becomes available, I will add a TBC from RedARC or similar for around $200, rather than the more expensive Ford OEM parts. You can get the 4/7 pin from Ford, but the only offer the entire harness on the rear bumper, something like $600.

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