GOAT Off-Road strut spacers installed

[Havasu RR]

Super nice wheels, but also super expensive! Hard to find a nice gold color like that!

They are not cheap that's for sure. Combination of lightweight and strength. I just bit the bullet.
I believe they call that a triple bronze color.

Sponsored

 

[TurboCyberMofo]

I did the 2-in front and 1-in rear. When I get home from work today I'll take some pics and post them. It's still on stock wheels and tires. I'll have new rims and tires on it by the end of the week. 35x11.5x 17

Nice. I'm looking into switching over to the same setup.
Were there any mods that you had to make to get the 35's to not rub on full steering lock?
I'm trying to get an idea of how the stance rake will look after the install, would you have a side view pic available to post? Thanks

 

[Havasu RR]

Nice. I'm looking into switching over to the same setup.
Were there any mods that you had to make to get the 35's to not rub on full steering lock?
I'm trying to get an idea of how the stance rake will look after the install, would you have a side view pic available to post? Thanks

I'll take a picture and post it. By going with the 35 x11.5 I have made absolutely no modifications. Full lock either way and forward or reverse. Nothing touches. I also offrode this machine hard. I've had it at full droop meaning catching air. And I've had it fully compressed on landing and nothing touches.

 

[BigMeatsBronco]

It rides exactly the same. It's not a preload on the spring. Yes, I zeroed out ride height using Forscan.

Uh yeah it is, anytime you add to the springs compressed rate, the spring rate IS CHANGED. Let me say it in a different way under full compression your spring is now compressed more than OEM. In my opinion the OEM shocks have a too stiff of a spring as it is already the last thing I would want to do is make them stiffer. That's why I chose to use the top hat spacers instead. The spring rate stays the same throughout the whole cycle it just moves the suspension down by one inch with the same amount of travel.

 

[jrlrule]

Uh yeah it is, anytime you add to the springs compressed rate, the spring rate IS CHANGED. Let me say it in a different way under full compression your spring is now compressed more than OEM. In my opinion the OEM shocks have a too stiff of a spring as it is already the last thing I would want to do is make them stiffer. That's why I chose to use the top hat spacers instead. The spring rate stays the same throughout the whole cycle it just moves the suspension down by one inch with the same amount of travel.

Isn't this a top hat/strut spacer? What brand did you go with?

 

[Daweism]

Uh yeah it is, anytime you add to the springs compressed rate, the spring rate IS CHANGED. Let me say it in a different way under full compression your spring is now compressed more than OEM. In my opinion the OEM shocks have a too stiff of a spring as it is already the last thing I would want to do is make them stiffer. That's why I chose to use the top hat spacers instead. The spring rate stays the same throughout the whole cycle it just moves the suspension down by one inch with the same amount of travel.

Move suspension down one inch.

Move cabin up one inch.

Lol, technically

 

[nedmo]

Uh yeah it is, anytime you add to the springs compressed rate, the spring rate IS CHANGED. Let me say it in a different way under full compression your spring is now compressed more than OEM. In my opinion the OEM shocks have a too stiff of a spring as it is already the last thing I would want to do is make them stiffer. That's why I chose to use the top hat spacers instead. The spring rate stays the same throughout the whole cycle it just moves the suspension down by one inch with the same amount of travel.

Brother, thats what GOAT sell, strut top spacers. Your rant is aimed at perch collars, which yeah we agree, suck.

 

[BigMeatsBronco]

Brother, thats what GOAT sell, strut top spacers. Your rant is aimed at perch collars, which yeah we agree, suck.

Shit your right!!!, SORRY I missed the picture and took off on a rant....my apologies. Very nice looking Ranger Raptor you have there! the bump stops look very functional.

 

[donkey]

@nedmo I don’t want to clutter this thread, but to pick your brain.

I added a 300# Go Fast Camper and have maybe another 100# of camping gear in the bed. I need to adjust springs to bring me back to factory ride height (I don’t want any lift). Do you have any spring suggestions?

Thank you.

 

[Harlequin_Forest]

I'll take a picture and post it. By going with the 35 x11.5 I have made absolutely no modifications. Full lock either way and forward or reverse. Nothing touches. I also offrode this machine hard. I've had it at full droop meaning catching air. And I've had it fully compressed on landing and nothing touches.

If you have any pics you could share from the side that'd be awesome! Trying to finalizing my wheel/tire set up with a lift too

 

[E40]

@nedmo I don’t want to clutter this thread, but to pick your brain.

I added a 300# Go Fast Camper and have maybe another 100# of camping gear in the bed. I need to adjust springs to bring me back to factory ride height (I don’t want any lift). Do you have any spring suggestions?

Thank you.

In the US market, Eibach's HD rear springs will be closest optiont for you (part# E30-35-066-02-02). Per Eibach, their HD rear springs have 250lb/in compared to 194 lb/in stock springs.

 

[Havasu RR]

Isn't this a top hat/strut spacer? What brand did you go with?

Goat off-road

 

[Havasu RR]

If you have any pics you could share from the side that'd be awesome! Trying to finalizing my wheel/tire set up with a lift too

 

[Havasu RR]

Nice. I'm looking into switching over to the same setup.
Were there any mods that you had to make to get the 35's to not rub on full steering lock?
I'm trying to get an idea of how the stance rake will look after the install, would you have a side view pic available to post? Thanks

 

[Lion77]

While a lift and 35's aren't in my goal posts right now (more high-speed focused), I do love the fact that the T6.2 platform can so easily be modded to be a "AT4X / ZR2 Bison" competitor....but not doggedly slow!

So basically, instead of every buy that Garbage Motors Company hunk of frame warping but admittedly aesthetically pleasing steel, which becomes sluggish when equipped with 35's, you can get the same or better ground clearance with tires, wheels and strut spacers but still retain a responsive powertrain.

None of the other mid-size trucks come even close to the RR's powertrain, especially after a Pro Cal. And there's such a cost disparity with its counterparts that you're still spending less overall to mod it properly (2" strut spacers, 35's, UCA's, Wheels) to retain all the live valve function and geometry if you want to turn it into a trail beast.

Or, if you want to crawl and got the coin, the cost of portals on a RR + 35"s is the same as the BRaptor, but far more utilitarian.

Sponsored