What oil will you be running after your 1st oil change?

[Amsoil guy]

Any insight appreciated.

My info is from the Technical Dept at Amsoil who know the formulations . For questions such as these.

J

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[HenryMac]

Only have 540km on the Ranger. After the break in I will be putting AMSOIL Signature Series and an Amsoil filter.

Amsoil’s 5W30 Signature Series has 1300 ppm of Calcium and 1000 ppm of Magneseum to meet Fords Specs for the LSPI Motors.. It’s a requirement from Ford in order to be able to recommend an oil to make sure the right protection is there and warranty approved.
J

Got any independent testing results that back that up?

The PQIA data shows 3,619 ppm Calcium and 19 ppm Magnesium.

 

[lou5560]

Mobil One Extended Performance along with a Mobil One Oil Filter. I have been using this combination on my previous vehicles for years. Even though its Extended Performance I still change my oil every 5000 miles. There maybe "Better" full synthetic oils out there but I've had pretty good luck with this oil & will continue to use it.

 

[US RangerRaptor]

I don’t want to get into a remarkably long debate but curious what you guys will be running. For the last decade I’ve run a Mobil1 Full Sythetic in my vehicles. At the 6,000mi interval I change the oil, I haven’t found sludge or anything to suggest the oil had broken down enough to harm my engines. I used to run the Motorcraft parasynthetic oil but it required a shorter change interval (I found it to be 4,000mi or less). And with these Ecoboost engines there has been great debate regarding the best oil; regarding fuel blowing past the piston rings into the crankcase, diluting non-synthetic oil, and the fuel/oil/air mix finding its way back up the crankcase breather tube, into the air intake, and baking onto the intake valves closest to where this recycled air enters the air intake.

Eventually there will be many options for air/oil separators (aka “oil catch cans”) for the Ranger, but in the meantime I’d like to run a synthetic that will reduce the deposits being left on my valves.

Personally I change the oil/filter after 500-1000 miles on a new engine to catch any leftover debris. Then use Mobil 1 full synthetic per mfg. weight.

 

[stemplar]

Just food for thought: Have your oil tested. It's a great way to judge how much life is left in the oil.

I figured my 2.7 F-150's suggestion of 10K oil changes was a bit long, so I've been getting the oil tested. Turns out that around 4k - 6k miles, there enough fuel dilution from the direct-inject engine that the oil is not viscous enough to protect the way it should.

I agree - there are lots of great oils, but be careful, that's only part of the equation.

great thread!

(PS Don't trust the onboard life calculator. it has NOTHING to do with sensing/testing your oil. It takes into account how you drive and makes an estimate)

Thank you for saying this! I was wondering how many posts I’d have to read before finding this wisdom. Seriously, testing your drain oil is the ONLY way to tell how your oil of choice is holding up in YOUR engine, under YOUR driving conditions.

And getting an idea of how your oil of choice holds up, or how different brands hold up in your vehicle, really puts into perspective just how many opinions and falsehood there tend to be in oil discussions.

 

[stemplar]

Oil analysis is a double edge sword. One high reading does not make for a definitive indicator but a progressive trend may be a good indication of an impending bearing failure. I have use Oil analysis for years on aircraft engines but I truly feel that unless you are hard core racing it can be a waste of money for your daily driver and weekend trail hog.

I respectfully disagree that it’s a double edged sword. I do think, though, that if you don’t get the TBN (total base number) with your test then you’re missing a critical point of the test. The tbn will show how the oil is holding up (how much of the additive package is left?), which goes a long way to answering the question about how long to go between changes. Some oil manufacturers publish the tbn values of their oils when new (I know amsoil does this).

 

[BriSco]

Walmart SuperTech oil (if it meets spec) and filters in everything I own after first change. First change, I use manufacuters oil and filter.
Have done it this way for years. 5k oil changes.

 

[Kit2523]

I have been using Ravenol DXG 5w-30 at 5,000 mile intervals. I get a fat discount on Ravenol here in my location.
The DXG ticks all boxes :
- SP (RC), D1Gen3, GF-6, m2c961-A1 approved.
- Higher HTHS at 3.25 cSt (higher than Motorcraft counter part)
- Very low NOACk at 6%
- Very good base oil, PAO, with even better co-base, alkylated Naphthalene
- Infinium star polymer for VII

Kit

 

[Strommen95]

Valvoline Extended Protection.

 

[Deleted member 9086]

Cerma or Amsoil.
https://www.cermastore.com/motor-oil.html ??

 

[Driven]

Mobile 1 extended performance 5w30 is not only SAE, but also ILSAC GF-5 certified. That's what I put in first oil change and will for everyone after reading this post. It's accessible at local part stores and high standard. It also meets or exceeds European ACEA standards.

I didn't bother with 0w30 because I live in Southern Nevada and it doesn't get that cold.

 

[hand-filer]

Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-30. It's readily available and quite often comes on sale at 40-50% off. More importantly it's certified to meet or exceed Ford specification: WSS-M2C961-A1

Bang for the buck and to comply with Ford's warranty requirements, it's PUP for me.
Costco's Kirkland Signature series full synthetic is also a good oil that meets or exceeds WSS-M2C961-A1 as well.

I use Ford Motorcraft FL-2062-A oil filters. I keep all receipts and photo document the mileage, the products and the vehicle on ramps with the oil draining into the bucket.
Overkill perhaps but It's not hard to do.

 

[mjpjr45]

I always do first oil change at 1000 and just did my first last week. I used and will continue using Mobil 1 and doing the changes every 5000.

 

[Lion77]

Motorcraft full synthetic first change at 1,800 miles today (why not 1k or 1.5k miles...cause I like freaking driving the truck and today was the only day I could get it changed lol). But I would make the argument based on known information that metal particulates are NOT the reason for an early change because the filter will control that.

It's silicone contamination which can cause some interference with the EP additives and it's ONLY a precaution, not a requirement. I didn't change the oil early in my daily driver mazda 3 but only ran it out to 5k on mazda's Moly full synthetic which is what it comes with.

Like others, I'll go by used oil analysis a few times to gauge how the oil holds up over the use interval, but I'm not going to bother with a UOA until I get my first 5k change interval for a better picture of how it's shearing down and how fast the additive package is being used up since I have to get through the next 3,200 miles on the switch over to motocraft full synthetic first.

At 10k, I will apply In Situ hydrogenated DLC coatings (TriboTEX) in conjunction with continued regular change intervals and factory filters to achieve super lubricity. I believe most of the newer oil formulas that are GF-6 also contain MoDTC which works synergistically with DLC coatings. MoDTC is becoming widely used to enhance fuel economy and control ware on factory parts that are DLC coated as it enhances the service life of factory DLC coated parts.

For anyone interested in the newer In Situ DLC coating technology, take a look here:

(1) Informational - Science / History Behind In Situ Hydrogenated DLC Coatings for ICE and Trans Applications | Ranger6G - 2024+ Ranger & Raptor Forum, News, Owners, Community (6th Gen)

The RR is a perfect use case due to how much friction losses there are in the drive train in particular (being a 4x4) and the fact that turbo engines run at higher pressures and benefit more from enhanced oil adhesion to the cylinder walls and bearing surfaces from the DLC lattice structure.

But getting back to the oils and filters, I personally have moved back from using aftermarket synthetic oils (mostly Mobil 1 and PUP) to only OE spec synthetics just to avoid any potential issues with a particular oil's additive package not performing optimally for a given engine architecture.

You can test the oils performance via UOA's, but I'd expect most factory synthetics perform very well for their own engines that there's not much need for anything else or the differences are pretty meaningless. Then I can avoid the issues of the dealer blaming the oil and filter IF something happens that requires warranty. Just my 2 cents.

 

[c72k]

LiquiMoli, had good luck with it in previous BMW/VWs. Mobil 1 always seemed to burn more particularly in mid 2000s GTIs

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